...a yogurt treat and then regurgitate it a while later? He has done this twice now. It seems to be broken down and in a more liquid form when it comes back up. Is this normal, or is something wrong?
Answers:
I'm not sure why the yogurt treat is coming up more liquid than before. Maybe it's just getting melty. But hamsters don't "regurgitate" their food per se. They have large cheek pouches that allow them to carry stuff around: food, shavings, even babies sometimes! Your hamster is just pouching the yogurt drop and saving it for later. Nothing to worry about.
Usually, hamsters store food in thier cheeks, but if it is coming out all wierd, then there is something wrong.
Does he manage to keep other kinds of treats down? If so, then he's probably lactose intolerant. Many adult mammals are, to some degree. The fact that most human adults can tolerate lactose is really the exception to the rule in the animal kingdom. Adult-onset lactose intolerance is a natural mechanism that helps ensure that milk is available for the youngsters that need it most.
That's strange, I had a hamster and sure he stuffed his mouth with food and moved it but never swallowed it and regurgitated it.
Are the yogurt treats supposed to be given to hamsters? I have one ans she doesn't throw up anything, she jus shoves her cheeks full of her food...that's normal... but throwin things up may not be... IDK
Hamsters stuff food (including seeds,etc) into their cheeks for later consumption. Its quite normal.
hes not swallowing it at all.hes saving it for later in his cheeks..yes he is doing what he should be doing and there is nothing to worry about with that.
he's storing it in his cheeks he will eat itt so don't worry
something is rong. ur hamster should ot regurgitate. call or take it to a vet. I have owned hamsters and never has one regurgitated anything.
somethings wrong take him to a vet and see what they said.
Are his pouches full? Hamsters store food in their cheeks and can do this for hours. Then when they want to eat it they spit it out and begin munching. Look at his cheeks and see if they a poofy. Keep in mind to never to hold them tight when they have food in their pouches- I had a friend that killed my hamster doing that
He is not really eating it, they store food in their cheeks and spit it out in another place they want to store it. My hamster sometimes takes all the food in his dish, sticks it all in his mouth and then moves it to his hide out. He once stuck a whole 2 baby carrets in his mouth. Be aware they also do this with bedding and treats, so dont think he is eating them. lol.
I suggest to only give him dry solid food. Your hamster might not take the yogurt treats well. Each hamster if different.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
We need to consider what to do with our beloved pet when she dies. Do you have some nice ideas?
Answers:
There is a company that can create a diamond with your pet's ashes. This is a great way of treasuring the memory of your pet.
http://www.lifegem.com/secondary/beloved...
My Mom had our cat and our large dog both of them creamated and one is in w/my stepdad's ashes. Mom wantst to have the cat's ashes combined with her ashes when she dies. It costs about $75.00 and its one way you can have your pet with you when you pass away. I plan to look into it myself I have a 12 year old male cat.
Some vets offer a cremation. When my pet died I got to decide if I wanted to cremate and have them scatter the ashes with other pets, or if I wanted individual cremation and the ashes back in a wooden ashes holder(can't remember what is was called)
I have heard of pet cemetaries, which is good if you want a place to visit the pet.
For me I liked the idea of him being cremated with other animals are having the ashes spread. It was comforting to know that he was with other animals and that his ashes were going back to the earth.
I want to get my darling cat cremated. I think I would put some ashes in a small capsule to hold onto and sprinkle the rest around the neighbourhood where he has spent his full life roaming. You could get a stuffed toy that looks similar to your animal and put the ashes in an appropriate vessel and keep them inside the toy. maybe?
i think cremations are the most reasonable. I had my dog cremated about a year ago, he is now sitting in a beautiful box they gave me on the fireplace mantle. i can always remember him and i know he's not ust slowly rotting underground.
If you have property, bury your pet and plant a nice tree above the grave to remember her.
Our rat, gerbil, goldfish and mice were burried in the backyard. Our goldfish was rather large (and in my creative 4 yr. old mind, named him Large), so he couldn't go down the toilet...it was dead winter, so we ended up freezing him and burying him in the first thaw, so then when it snowed I made a little snowfish over his grave for him. With the others, we found some nice stones to put over their graves, then planted flowers there following summer.
Our two dogs were cremated - they are in beautiful boxes on the ledge between our dining room and living room. Infront of the urns we have a picture of them - the one that just recently died also has an ink paw print and a plaster pawprint in a little photo case (the one side has greater depth for the plaster pawprint). For me, to see his large paws...I don't know, it makes me remember him even better - the walks in the snow and slush, his muddy paw prints when he came in from the rain which leads to memories of his nose that always got dirty because he loved to dig...and the memories just continue.
I don't know...I know that I will have a lot of animals in my life and I can't collect urn boxes forever. My grandmother has a little corner in her yard where she buried her two dachshunds. She used to always plants flowers there - one year the deer ate them and she was devastated. A few weeks later, some wild flowers popped up only in the area with the dogs - it seemed very special. She leaves that corner alone and the flowers come back every year.
In the past I have always buried my pets. When my beloved Codey passed we buried him near a large tree and put up a little head stone.. you can often get small pet headstones very cheap at places that mix concrete.
Recently I had to bury my neighbor's rabbit because he died of a stomach upset. You can have a dedication to him, or cremation with an urn and a poem etched on it. If you want to share your thoughts about your pet, go to www.rainbowbridge.com and you can put up a memorial about your pet with a picture and a speech. You can have a tombstone over her grave with etchings and designs. Maybe you can hang a wreath of flowers now and then in her favorite spot. Keep pictures of her around the house. You can bury her at her favorite spot outside (unless it's somewhere inaccessible). I hope that your pet will have a wonderful last hours or days or even months! Make her comfortable and happy. I'm sorry for your pet... Hope this helped... :-)
I've had my pets cremated, and their ashes currently reside in small urns. My family knows that my wishes are that my pets' ashes be scattered with mine.
we dont have enough money to cremate, but it would be good to do that if i could. if you dont want to cremate your pet, then burry her somewere outside that was her favorite place to be. and maybe plant a tree out there and put a headstone over her grave. every special occasion i would but flowers on my cats grave. on her bday i would pick TONS of flowers and put them out there. well good luck!
well my pet was small she was a guinea pig so i wrapped her up in a plaid cloth and put her inside a box i made for her and dug really deep then put her in the hole and covered it up and after that I put a cross over it.
Cremate or bury, plant a nice garden in memory, make a scrapbbok, and then make a donation in your pets name to the animal interest group of your choice so that the love carries on...
We lost our Shih-Tzu, GiGi, this morning.?
She was 13, and developed respiratory distress, from unknown causes. We have no children ,and our animals are our babies. GiGi was our "first-born". Our grief was overwhelming, and a turnip would have given us more compassion than the vet's office did. No sooner did the assistant take GiGi in the back room, than the other assistant was sticking her head in the room and telling us how much we owe them. I do realize it's a business to them, but to the grieving owners, a little compassion goes a long way. I feel like someone has kicked me in the stomach, and all they wanted is their money. When did people lose their compassion is what I want to know? This was the single hardest decision I have ever had to make in my life, I am 52, and, a part of me died today with her. And all they wanted was their money and their room back for the next client.
Answers:
First of all, I am deeply sorry for your loss. I know exactly what you are going through. My husband and I have no children and just like you, our dogs are our babies. We lost our Schnauzer mix Penny 2 and a half years ago when she was 11. She had been sick since she was 6 years old, but we spent thousands of dollars to keep her with us. With enough treatment, her last years were comfortable for her. I was 15 when I got her from a friend of a friend who was going to take her to the pound and she died when I was 26. My husband had always teased me that he had married me for Penny. When she died, I thought I was going to die. Luckily, my employer knew how I was with my dogs and she gave me 3 days off. It's a good thing because I wouldn't have showed up anyway and that's not like me. I even had to take medications to help me sleep and to stop shaking. She was my world. I still cry over her at least twice a week but at least now I can think of the happy times too. My other dog who was 4 at the time was so depressed that before a month had passed we had to get him a friend. We were not ready for another dog and felt really guilty, but we had to for Shiloh. And it was so weird, we got a dog named Ozzie who really needed us. He was at a shelter and had heartworm and nobody wanted him. Then a year later he got cancer and we got him better from that. So, even though it's still hard, it was fulfilling to have helped another homeless animal. That's what Penny would have wanted. I wear a necklace that is engraved with her picture everyday, so trust me, I know what you are going through. You are going to have bad days ahead, but your other dogs need you so that will help.
As for people lacking compassion, I could not agree with you more. We were lucky with Penny though. The day before she passed away, we had her to the vet and had purchased $250 worth of her medication and do you know what? The clinic took the meds back and refunded our money. That touched my heart. It wasn't that we needed the money, but it was the principle of the thing. There are some good people out there, they are just hard to find. I will say a prayer for you and your husband.
You need to look for a new vet.My mom lost her poodle and they told her they would bill her.She had time to grieve before she had to face that.I live in a small town and we have great vet service.Look elsewhere.I am so sorry to hear about your baby.
I know. Sometimes these offices are so busy that they don't give a thought to how people are feeling just move the line for the next patient. Sorry for your loss. I was 18 when we lost our doggie and I cried so much. You get attached to your pets just like children, they are your family.
Definitely time to get a new vet! Some are only in it for the money, others actually love animals. When you are feeling a little better, shop around for a new vet in your area. Ask some friends with pets who they use and their feelings about their vet. Ask about specific qualities and experiences they have had with their vet.
I feel for your loss. It can be soooo heartbreaking to lose a family member. Remember too, if you have other pets, they may be grieving as well. You can all console each other.
I am so sorry for your loss and yes people have lost their compassion and dignity as well . It is horrible and I would find myself another vet they should have been more carring than that . I totally agree with you . once again my condolances.
I am so sorry to hear that. The same thing happened to me when I had to put my very first rotti down cause she had cancer and after all the meds and surgery and 5000.00 later i decided I didnt want her to suffer anymore and made the hardest decidion of my life. And they were the same way to me. People are heartless and dont care about anything but money and themselves.
I just what to let you know how bad I feel for your loss. I really can feel your pain in your words. You should go in and let them know how they made you feel. Maybe if you say something to the boss things might get better, and then someone else might be spared that kind of treatment
I'm so sorry about your baby! It's horrible to lose a pet.
You need to find a new vet! Believe it or not, there are a lot of vets that go into practice and don't even like animals! It seems very strange to me. Of course there are still compassionate animal care providers out there. The best way to find a good one is by word of mouth. Ask people who have animals if they like their vet and if they would highly recommend them.
Answers:
First of all, I am deeply sorry for your loss. I know exactly what you are going through. My husband and I have no children and just like you, our dogs are our babies. We lost our Schnauzer mix Penny 2 and a half years ago when she was 11. She had been sick since she was 6 years old, but we spent thousands of dollars to keep her with us. With enough treatment, her last years were comfortable for her. I was 15 when I got her from a friend of a friend who was going to take her to the pound and she died when I was 26. My husband had always teased me that he had married me for Penny. When she died, I thought I was going to die. Luckily, my employer knew how I was with my dogs and she gave me 3 days off. It's a good thing because I wouldn't have showed up anyway and that's not like me. I even had to take medications to help me sleep and to stop shaking. She was my world. I still cry over her at least twice a week but at least now I can think of the happy times too. My other dog who was 4 at the time was so depressed that before a month had passed we had to get him a friend. We were not ready for another dog and felt really guilty, but we had to for Shiloh. And it was so weird, we got a dog named Ozzie who really needed us. He was at a shelter and had heartworm and nobody wanted him. Then a year later he got cancer and we got him better from that. So, even though it's still hard, it was fulfilling to have helped another homeless animal. That's what Penny would have wanted. I wear a necklace that is engraved with her picture everyday, so trust me, I know what you are going through. You are going to have bad days ahead, but your other dogs need you so that will help.
As for people lacking compassion, I could not agree with you more. We were lucky with Penny though. The day before she passed away, we had her to the vet and had purchased $250 worth of her medication and do you know what? The clinic took the meds back and refunded our money. That touched my heart. It wasn't that we needed the money, but it was the principle of the thing. There are some good people out there, they are just hard to find. I will say a prayer for you and your husband.
You need to look for a new vet.My mom lost her poodle and they told her they would bill her.She had time to grieve before she had to face that.I live in a small town and we have great vet service.Look elsewhere.I am so sorry to hear about your baby.
I know. Sometimes these offices are so busy that they don't give a thought to how people are feeling just move the line for the next patient. Sorry for your loss. I was 18 when we lost our doggie and I cried so much. You get attached to your pets just like children, they are your family.
Definitely time to get a new vet! Some are only in it for the money, others actually love animals. When you are feeling a little better, shop around for a new vet in your area. Ask some friends with pets who they use and their feelings about their vet. Ask about specific qualities and experiences they have had with their vet.
I feel for your loss. It can be soooo heartbreaking to lose a family member. Remember too, if you have other pets, they may be grieving as well. You can all console each other.
I am so sorry for your loss and yes people have lost their compassion and dignity as well . It is horrible and I would find myself another vet they should have been more carring than that . I totally agree with you . once again my condolances.
I am so sorry to hear that. The same thing happened to me when I had to put my very first rotti down cause she had cancer and after all the meds and surgery and 5000.00 later i decided I didnt want her to suffer anymore and made the hardest decidion of my life. And they were the same way to me. People are heartless and dont care about anything but money and themselves.
I just what to let you know how bad I feel for your loss. I really can feel your pain in your words. You should go in and let them know how they made you feel. Maybe if you say something to the boss things might get better, and then someone else might be spared that kind of treatment
I'm so sorry about your baby! It's horrible to lose a pet.
You need to find a new vet! Believe it or not, there are a lot of vets that go into practice and don't even like animals! It seems very strange to me. Of course there are still compassionate animal care providers out there. The best way to find a good one is by word of mouth. Ask people who have animals if they like their vet and if they would highly recommend them.
We just put our Hamster to sleep...?
We had to put our hamster (Dora) to sleep on Saturday, she was bleeding and the vet said sometimes they have bacteria in their system and when they get older, they get sick from it. She was bleeding really bad and she could not stand or walk and she lost weight. She was a very good hamster and let our daughter play with her all the time and she never bit. Now my daughter is extremely sad. She has dealt with death before and now she says "how many more family people do I have to loose?!" Our daughter is 5 and we did the whole funeral and burial thing and yes we paid $82.00 to have her put to sleep so she would not suffer. I guess my question is, how can I make this easier for my daughter, she cries whenever she talks about her and I just try to hug her and comfort her but she has had a lot of Loss in the past couple years and is feeling really low. Thanks for the help..
Answers:
I know you hurt when you see your daughter so sad. My daughter lost her first gold fish.. we too had the funeral bit.. I think it hurt me to see her so sad that I took her to the pet store just to look we did went every wk end.. till i seen her smile.. the smile turned to laughter and she ended asking for a tiger fish..(toby) not a gold fish because she said no gold fish can replace sneezy. and i got her a t-shirt with a gold fish and i put sneezy's name on it. she's now 22 yrs. and she still talks about her gold fish sneezy and still have the faded t-shirt. I hope this helps I will pray for her.
I'm so sorry. Talk to a school counselor and maybe she coould help. Aso, visit Petsmart. They have guinea pigs there. They live for at least 6 years are are REALLY sweet. They NEVER bite and LOVE kids. They're only about $30. They're SO cute! Good Luck!
That is really hard for a young child. Sounds like your doing everything for her. I'd ask her if she wanted another hamster and pick out another one. That may help.
well i would get another pet. not another hamster. somethin that lives longer like a dog or cat. if u cant get a dog or cat then u should get a chinchilla or guinea pug. chinchillas are very very nice and most of the time live up to 10 years!! i have one and he loves going out of his pen and playing. i put him in the hallway and he really bounces off the walls!! i am having a lot of fun with him and i think anyone else would too!
Crying is a normal healthy part of grief - your daughter is grieving and it will take her time to heal.
Allow your daughter to talk about Dora whenever she needs to, ask her if she'd like to do anything special (like possibly put her picture up on her wall, or one of the Rainbow Bridge sites). Check out your local book store - they often have good books on helping a child with grief - or speak to a counsellor.
Don't rush out and get another pet (of any kind). For a start, it's important that she has time to heal first, and secondly there's no guarantee that a new pet will (for want of a better phrase) meet her expectations so soon after Dora - you'd obviously want your daughter and pet to have a good relationship and it'd be sad for both if that didn't happen. You'll know when it's time to open your house to another furry/feathered etc family member (whether that's a hamster or something else) BTW: It's not true that Guinea Pigs don't bite - we've just had a group handed in that both bite and scratch when handled due to neglect from birth. Good luck to all of you.
Poor thing. I'm so sorry. Have her sit with you and tell you all the things she loved about Dora. What was her favorite thing about Dora and why? Write it on paper and let her keep and read it (with you of course as I assume she can't read yet) as many times as she needs to. Maybe you two could make your own little book about Dora and she could make the drawings or you could insert pictures. She could have her book to remember happier times with Dora. It's so tough when little one's are hurting so much. Take care
Answers:
I know you hurt when you see your daughter so sad. My daughter lost her first gold fish.. we too had the funeral bit.. I think it hurt me to see her so sad that I took her to the pet store just to look we did went every wk end.. till i seen her smile.. the smile turned to laughter and she ended asking for a tiger fish..(toby) not a gold fish because she said no gold fish can replace sneezy. and i got her a t-shirt with a gold fish and i put sneezy's name on it. she's now 22 yrs. and she still talks about her gold fish sneezy and still have the faded t-shirt. I hope this helps I will pray for her.
I'm so sorry. Talk to a school counselor and maybe she coould help. Aso, visit Petsmart. They have guinea pigs there. They live for at least 6 years are are REALLY sweet. They NEVER bite and LOVE kids. They're only about $30. They're SO cute! Good Luck!
That is really hard for a young child. Sounds like your doing everything for her. I'd ask her if she wanted another hamster and pick out another one. That may help.
well i would get another pet. not another hamster. somethin that lives longer like a dog or cat. if u cant get a dog or cat then u should get a chinchilla or guinea pug. chinchillas are very very nice and most of the time live up to 10 years!! i have one and he loves going out of his pen and playing. i put him in the hallway and he really bounces off the walls!! i am having a lot of fun with him and i think anyone else would too!
Crying is a normal healthy part of grief - your daughter is grieving and it will take her time to heal.
Allow your daughter to talk about Dora whenever she needs to, ask her if she'd like to do anything special (like possibly put her picture up on her wall, or one of the Rainbow Bridge sites). Check out your local book store - they often have good books on helping a child with grief - or speak to a counsellor.
Don't rush out and get another pet (of any kind). For a start, it's important that she has time to heal first, and secondly there's no guarantee that a new pet will (for want of a better phrase) meet her expectations so soon after Dora - you'd obviously want your daughter and pet to have a good relationship and it'd be sad for both if that didn't happen. You'll know when it's time to open your house to another furry/feathered etc family member (whether that's a hamster or something else) BTW: It's not true that Guinea Pigs don't bite - we've just had a group handed in that both bite and scratch when handled due to neglect from birth. Good luck to all of you.
Poor thing. I'm so sorry. Have her sit with you and tell you all the things she loved about Dora. What was her favorite thing about Dora and why? Write it on paper and let her keep and read it (with you of course as I assume she can't read yet) as many times as she needs to. Maybe you two could make your own little book about Dora and she could make the drawings or you could insert pictures. She could have her book to remember happier times with Dora. It's so tough when little one's are hurting so much. Take care
We just adopted a 1 yr old dwarf bunny last night. He now has diarrhea. Is this just from the home change?
What can i give him to stop the loose stools? Also, how long will his molting last.
One more question- what is the best was to introduce my Lab to him?
Answers:
Rabbits get worms too. Try having it dewormed. That's probably whats causing the diarrhea. As for you dog, hold the bunny in your hands and make the dog LAY ON HIS SIDE so he knows hes not in charge anymore. If he licks his lips then smack him on the nose. He will eventally give up and then try putting the bunny on his side while hes lying down. That's what I did with my dog and my guenia pig and they are friends now.
he has the runs because its neverous.
however the Lab meeting will most likely be the end of fluffy...good luck with it
Yes...he is nervous and stressed..animals don't like change.
Find out what he was used to eating in his last home.
I don't think you want to introduce your Lab to him untilthe stool problem is fixed
it could be, but it also could be his cage, water, or food. or you feeding him the same thing that he was eating before. make sure that he is not eating things off the floor, ect.
a bunny can die very quickly from diarrhea. you may want to give it small amounts of pepto from a needless syringe, to help.
i would say wait on introducing him to the lab until he gets over the illness.
The runs are probably due to moving into a new environment. But I must ask what you are lining the cage with. If you are using ceder wood chippings stop using them because they are bad for the animal. About your dog you should have someone hold firmly on the dogs collar while you hold the rabbit in your arms but be ready to jerk the bunny away if the dog tries to take a bite.
Hello, I am a bit concerned about the LAB! What is this? As for poor bunny it may just be nerves, thank goodness its not very young otherwise this would see the end of the poor thing. As for molting this can be permanent depending on species, usually Drawf's are very easy to look after.
All I can say is be patient and good luck
It could be the change of scener is stressing him a bit. Or a change in water or food could be setting him off. Do you know what kind of pellets and what types of veggies he was used to before you got him? Call the people you adopted him from if not.
Most rabbits go through a heavy shedding period once or twice a year. I'd expect this to take a couple of weeks. If he's OK with being handled, brush him daily if possible during this time and weekly when he not in a heavy shed.
Hopefully, your lab knows how to lie down and stay and avoid distractions. If not, teach him or her now. Also introduce the concept of "gentle", meaning to investigate something without any agression or mouthing. Have the dog check out your hands, a toy, a towel theat smell like the rabbit, or whatever. Offer praise and say "Yes. Gentle. What a good, gentle dog." When you introduce them, have your dog lie down and stay on leash. The rabbit's cage should be open in case he wants to hide. Let the rabbit set the pace. If your dog is crate trained, you can also let the rabbit check out the dog while the dog is secured in the crate. Go slowly and always supervise.
I have found that stool problems with rabbits can result from stress or even something as simple as changing the source of the water.
Do NOT feed any lettuce or carrots etc. As a general rule, never feed lettuce. No nutritional value and they don't need it. Definitely needs hay daily. I recommend any hay EXCEPT alfalfa. Alfalfa is too rich.
For a 1 year old dwarf (if it is a true dwarf - under 2.5 lbs.), he should get about 1/4 cup of RABBIT food/pellets daily and as much hay as he can eat.
I would ask the previous owner - any problems with stools previously? What was his diet?
It could be just the change in homes. If it smells bad, it could indicate that he has a stomach bacterial infection and would need medication from your vet. Good luck!
Oh, you mention molting. Was he being kept outside and now is indoors? That change can cause them to shed profusely. Brush him daily (will help him to bond to you also), NO treats and keep his cage clean.
He is nervous from the change, give him oats, like the quaker oats in the can, dry, mixed with his pellet food, and plenty of timothy hay.
to introduce the lab to him, make sure the dog is being held well, and let the dog sniff the cage and pet him if he is being good
Change of diet and stress will do it. He needs to see the vet, wet tail is almost always fatal without veterinarian attention.
Take him to the the vet, wait a couple of weeks until he's adapted to his new surroundings and is feeling better, THAN worry about introducing a dog to him.
One more question- what is the best was to introduce my Lab to him?
Answers:
Rabbits get worms too. Try having it dewormed. That's probably whats causing the diarrhea. As for you dog, hold the bunny in your hands and make the dog LAY ON HIS SIDE so he knows hes not in charge anymore. If he licks his lips then smack him on the nose. He will eventally give up and then try putting the bunny on his side while hes lying down. That's what I did with my dog and my guenia pig and they are friends now.
he has the runs because its neverous.
however the Lab meeting will most likely be the end of fluffy...good luck with it
Yes...he is nervous and stressed..animals don't like change.
Find out what he was used to eating in his last home.
I don't think you want to introduce your Lab to him untilthe stool problem is fixed
it could be, but it also could be his cage, water, or food. or you feeding him the same thing that he was eating before. make sure that he is not eating things off the floor, ect.
a bunny can die very quickly from diarrhea. you may want to give it small amounts of pepto from a needless syringe, to help.
i would say wait on introducing him to the lab until he gets over the illness.
The runs are probably due to moving into a new environment. But I must ask what you are lining the cage with. If you are using ceder wood chippings stop using them because they are bad for the animal. About your dog you should have someone hold firmly on the dogs collar while you hold the rabbit in your arms but be ready to jerk the bunny away if the dog tries to take a bite.
Hello, I am a bit concerned about the LAB! What is this? As for poor bunny it may just be nerves, thank goodness its not very young otherwise this would see the end of the poor thing. As for molting this can be permanent depending on species, usually Drawf's are very easy to look after.
All I can say is be patient and good luck
It could be the change of scener is stressing him a bit. Or a change in water or food could be setting him off. Do you know what kind of pellets and what types of veggies he was used to before you got him? Call the people you adopted him from if not.
Most rabbits go through a heavy shedding period once or twice a year. I'd expect this to take a couple of weeks. If he's OK with being handled, brush him daily if possible during this time and weekly when he not in a heavy shed.
Hopefully, your lab knows how to lie down and stay and avoid distractions. If not, teach him or her now. Also introduce the concept of "gentle", meaning to investigate something without any agression or mouthing. Have the dog check out your hands, a toy, a towel theat smell like the rabbit, or whatever. Offer praise and say "Yes. Gentle. What a good, gentle dog." When you introduce them, have your dog lie down and stay on leash. The rabbit's cage should be open in case he wants to hide. Let the rabbit set the pace. If your dog is crate trained, you can also let the rabbit check out the dog while the dog is secured in the crate. Go slowly and always supervise.
I have found that stool problems with rabbits can result from stress or even something as simple as changing the source of the water.
Do NOT feed any lettuce or carrots etc. As a general rule, never feed lettuce. No nutritional value and they don't need it. Definitely needs hay daily. I recommend any hay EXCEPT alfalfa. Alfalfa is too rich.
For a 1 year old dwarf (if it is a true dwarf - under 2.5 lbs.), he should get about 1/4 cup of RABBIT food/pellets daily and as much hay as he can eat.
I would ask the previous owner - any problems with stools previously? What was his diet?
It could be just the change in homes. If it smells bad, it could indicate that he has a stomach bacterial infection and would need medication from your vet. Good luck!
Oh, you mention molting. Was he being kept outside and now is indoors? That change can cause them to shed profusely. Brush him daily (will help him to bond to you also), NO treats and keep his cage clean.
He is nervous from the change, give him oats, like the quaker oats in the can, dry, mixed with his pellet food, and plenty of timothy hay.
to introduce the lab to him, make sure the dog is being held well, and let the dog sniff the cage and pet him if he is being good
Change of diet and stress will do it. He needs to see the vet, wet tail is almost always fatal without veterinarian attention.
Take him to the the vet, wait a couple of weeks until he's adapted to his new surroundings and is feeling better, THAN worry about introducing a dog to him.
We have built some rabbit hutches?
One hutch would fit one rabbit...We have made them very rabbit (clean)friendly... and have painted them wonderful disney colors ( piglet pink ect) very cute for young pet owners I was wondering how much you guys think we should sale them for? I know they same type of hutch sell for over $100 at IFA but they are so plain and boring.. the ones we made are not a eye sore and plus purfect for a rabbit.
I am a lionhead breeder so I know rabbits
Answers:
Anything "custom built" would be worth more than mass-production. If they are as good as you say they are you should have no trouble getting up to $150.00 or more. I would suggest looking in your local classified section of your newspaper or online for rabbit breeders and/or "fanciers". Also, you could set up a booth at your local "flea market". There you will encounter many people from all walks of life. Or you could try putting adds up in local businesses around town to market your product. It sounds like you have a good thing going. I wish you luck.
I can't give you a price, but maybe I can help you figure one out. I think a good place to start might be to ask a local feed store, or pet store, if they might be interested in selling them for you. They would have a good idea what they would sell for, and you might get a good outlet for them there.
The other thing you might try is to go to a local FFA chapter. They have a site: http://www.ffa.org/
I would imagine there is a place on there to find a chapter in your area, or to contact them online. They are active in schools, especially in rural areas. My daughter had rabbits for her FFA project in highschool.
The other thing you might want to try, is checking with your nearest fairgrounds, about getting registered with a booth at their fair this summer. You might be able to market them there, or at least attend the fair and check out the rabbit breeders section. You could have fun looking at their rabbits, and ask them what your hutches would be worth.
If yours are as good quality as the ones you see selling for $100, and yours are painted so nicely, I would think yours might be worth $125 or more. It's hard for me to guess of course, and some of it all depends on finding the right market for them
They sound nice, and quite cute. Best of luck!
I am a lionhead breeder so I know rabbits
Answers:
Anything "custom built" would be worth more than mass-production. If they are as good as you say they are you should have no trouble getting up to $150.00 or more. I would suggest looking in your local classified section of your newspaper or online for rabbit breeders and/or "fanciers". Also, you could set up a booth at your local "flea market". There you will encounter many people from all walks of life. Or you could try putting adds up in local businesses around town to market your product. It sounds like you have a good thing going. I wish you luck.
I can't give you a price, but maybe I can help you figure one out. I think a good place to start might be to ask a local feed store, or pet store, if they might be interested in selling them for you. They would have a good idea what they would sell for, and you might get a good outlet for them there.
The other thing you might try is to go to a local FFA chapter. They have a site: http://www.ffa.org/
I would imagine there is a place on there to find a chapter in your area, or to contact them online. They are active in schools, especially in rural areas. My daughter had rabbits for her FFA project in highschool.
The other thing you might want to try, is checking with your nearest fairgrounds, about getting registered with a booth at their fair this summer. You might be able to market them there, or at least attend the fair and check out the rabbit breeders section. You could have fun looking at their rabbits, and ask them what your hutches would be worth.
If yours are as good quality as the ones you see selling for $100, and yours are painted so nicely, I would think yours might be worth $125 or more. It's hard for me to guess of course, and some of it all depends on finding the right market for them
They sound nice, and quite cute. Best of luck!
We have a dead animal in our wall for about 5 days and now my baby is sick, could the smell get him sick?
we told our apartment about it 4 times and they keep telling us that they are going to come out, and nothing. we have had this smell in the master bedroom since last saturday, and my baby, keeps getting a fever of 101.3 for the past two days. he is fine during the day but towards the night thats when he gets sick.
Answers:
If your baby is only getting sick at night, i doubt it is because of the smell. You should probably take him to a doctor though.
It sounds like your baby has some sort of infection. It wouldn't be linked to the smell though.
Answers:
If your baby is only getting sick at night, i doubt it is because of the smell. You should probably take him to a doctor though.
It sounds like your baby has some sort of infection. It wouldn't be linked to the smell though.
We got a new male rabbit, any suggestions on a name, i already thought of stew' but the kids dont like it?
Answers:
www.barbibrownsbunnies.com has lots of bunny names.
Jack
Very good. How about Bunzilla, or Captain Binky?
Why Thumper of course!
thumper
Roger
roger or rampant lol
i have a lop eared male called Mr Binx, my other half is a star wars fan thow!
Actually...STEW is cute! But other ideas...Jack, Hoppy, Rascal, Fuzzy, Cotton-tail, Peter Rabbit, Cuddles
pepper,ginger or chilly
these will be fine too
How about Buck.Many rabbits are white, Our last one we called Snowy.Could be Bugs(bunny) or Roger(who killed).Make the kids help look after him. It's all usually left to mum and dad.
murfy or morris!!
Chino - as in Cappuchino.
Stew is cute but you can keep the name according to its gender- Stewgrew
are you going for cute, original, or oppositional?
fluffy, George (we name all of our pets George, even females, so for us it's not all that original), Sunday Dinner.
my mini lop is called vinny - i also like toby
cookie
Smudge :O)
Burdock, Lincoln ( as in Burrows), Vernon, Louie, Dougal,
Arthur
becuase
R for ..rabbit!
or pie ...curry..kebab...lol
if he's a small dwarf rabbit, give him a cute name, like Fluffy, Snowball (if he's white), Huggy, etc. Or you can gim him a tough name, if you want it to be funny. Like Rocky, Mad Max, Killer, etc
mine is called peter lol x x
Random ideas:
brownie
thumper
roly
hoppitt
chump
fleck
oreo
twitch
cleo
peter
what about hutch xxx
That's a great name "Stew"!
Pie?
ROGER!
We are having a pet rabbit in the next few days what advice can any one give on caring for it's health?
Please no silly answers.
Answers:
Its cage should be indoors, were it will live longer. It needs to have a really large cage and needs to be able to play outside of its cage for at least 2 hours a day. Rabbits do NOT make good pets for children as rabbits do not like to be held or restrained. They live for 10 + years and require just about the same amount of care as a dog or cat. PLEASE GET A FIXED RABBIT! Nuetered/spayed rabbits are happier and they dont chew, dig and spray as much. A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay (alfalfa, timothy or oat), water and fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities. Make sure your house is "bunny proofed" as cords and wires are a major concern. Their teeth NEVER stop growing and therefore you should provide wood blocks and vets trimming their teeth. Rabbits need to be groomed often.
Here are suggested veggies:
Alfalfa, radish %26 clover sprouts
Basil
Beet greens (tops)*
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*
Brussels sprouts
Carrot %26 carrot tops*
Celery
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens*
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)*
Endive*
Escarole
Green peppers
Kale (!)*
Mint
Mustard greens*
Parsley*
Pea pods (the flat edible kind)*
Peppermint leaves
Raddichio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*
Spinach (!)*
Watercress*
Wheat grass
love and attention, so he will have a long and happy life, good luck.
hutch and run
nice garden with no holes!
they adore dandy lion leaves
plenty of water,
clean hutch out daily
you don't say what type of rabbit!
i have a lop and they are very very lazy!!!
oh! and put a football in the run,mine loves
to play football!!!
lots off grooming and handling..
honest!!!
dont keep in cage
give vegetables to eat
you need a good size hutch with either a run connected to it (which is easier as rabbits dont like to be handled very much once out of the baby phase)or a playpen if indoors, being couped up in a small hutch will only make it depressed and will cause behaviour problems, of course - plenty of food water and hay, toys to keep him/her stimulated and please get your rabbit spayed/neutered - will reduce hormones in both sexes and help prevent cancer. and watch out for flystrike which is nasty - you can spray their bottom with lavender which the flys dont like.
Make sure you have your rabbit injections every year/6mths for mxyamotosis.
My rabbit loves his football too !!
Rechargeable batteries... (I am sorry, I couldn't resist... even though you said no silly answers).
make sure it has carrotts to chew on, also get it a run so it can enjoy time out on the grass as well- also make sure you clean its cage often and keep its backside clean - so it does not get an infection.
There's so much you need to know if you want a happy rabbit. You need to get at least one rabbit care book, that way you have the information on hand when you need it.
Just go to your local pet store or buy one off amazon. It's really important and they contain really good information.
But before you get the rabbit make sure you have prepared for it well enough, you need a big enough hutch! I've seen too many rabbits in hutches too small and that's because theyre available almost everywhere. Just cos ur local petshop sells a hutch doesnt mean it is big enough. It should be half a metre in height (excluding the legs) and have lots of living space. Also get a run, because rabbits are designed to run!!
Have fun!
We have two rabbits. Just make sure that you keep plenty of hay in it's sleeping place and saawdust in the other. Give it plenty of rabbit food, ours eats about 2 bowlfulls a day. Don't give lettuce as it gives them the runs. Plenty of fresh water and exercise- you can get special harnesses for them and take them out as you would a dog. Really, they are so easy to look after.
1. Buy timothy hay and feed it timothy hay whenever it runs out
2. Rabbits need to be taken out a lot so make sure you have somewhere for it to play and a playpen or something.
3. It needs to have a big cage with a little house for privacy
4. It needs a loving and caring owner
5. They are best to be housed with their own species, but are better alone, do not house them with guinea pigs, rats, or especially snakes. It can be very dangerous
6. Somewhere for it to go if you go on vacation
7. The proper Nutrition
Buy or build it a large weatherproof hutch for starters most of those you see in pet shops are too small it should be at least two foot above ground level out the way of cats and dogs. It will need clean dry hay or straw for bedding in a sheltered box or better still a cubby hole. Rabbit food as sold in in pet shops is okay but it also needs green food, fresh dandy lion leaves are better than lettuce also a raw carrot or chunk of turnip are essential for healthy teeth and clean fresh water ( not milk ) should always be provided and will need it's hutch cleaning at least once a week. If it is young the more it is gently handled the tamer it will become. Enjoy.
ask lots of questions when you pick it up,what food its already on for instance as they have delicate tums and if you change their diet it may cause problems.if you are keeping it indoors you will need a large cage with a house in it also a litter tray as they can be trained to use one,feed small amounts of pellets,afew greens but lots of good quality hay,oxbow timothy hay is very good.plenty of fresh water is needed too.take it to your vet as soon as possible for a check up and advice on needed vaccinations,also arrange for it to be neutered or spayed,this is important as your bun will feel much better after their op,females have a high risk of uterine cancer if not spayed plus they can be aggressive due to the hormonal inbalances,males too.if its to be an outdoor bun then a good solid large weatherproof hutch with a run for exercise.you must bunny proof your home and garden.provide things for the bun to play with and to chew,they can become very bored and lonely if not handled and played with.there are many good books that explain most of what you need to know,but remember they are very intelligent and have characters of their own.join an internet group for advice and support, yahoo groups uk pet rabbits for instance.you can learn their body language and know how to respond to their actions.they are a joy to care for and very loving creatures.take things slow at first so they will learn to trust you,and then just enjoy their binky dances,if your bun licks your hand or face,as mine do,they are telling you that they love and trust you.i could go on and on but i'll stop now.enjoy
The most important health issue of all is DONT GET IT FROM A PET SHOP! they get really bad teeth and lots of them carry infections. Go to a breeder or a resuce centre.
Other than that if you make sure it gets lots of exercise and fresh food. Lots of environmental enrichment and love, then you will have a very very happy and healthy rabbit.
If you live in an area with wild rabbits you may also want to get your rabbit some jabs, kinda like the ones dogs get, to protect agains any diseases the wild ones may pass on.
Have fun with your new rabbit :)
Only advice I would give anyone BEFORE purchasing / receiving any pet is to read all you can about them, buy a decent book or borrow one from the library. Try not to get annoyed when you find that every book by a different author has contradicting opinions on welfare/husbandry! Its not just rabbit books - it's EVERY book on any animal.
Anyway, when you have gained sufficient confidence and knowledge, take your bunny home and register him/her with your vet. A general health profile and some proffesional advice will benefit both you and your rabbit in the long run.
Talk about innocculations (injections against viruses/diseases), and ask about neutering.
You can also join or obtain more information on your beloved bunny by contacting the Rabbit Welfare Association / Rabbit Welfare Fund on (UK) 01403 267658 or you can e-mail them: http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk
Best of luck - oh, and have fun choosing a name.
make sure the seller shows you the front teeth the top 2 should over lap the bottom 2 make sure the seller tells you what you rabbit has been eatting as rabbit don't like sudden change in food the best age to buy a rabbit is 8 wks old %26 most important don't feed rabbits lettuce it's not suitable for rabbits and gives them upset tummy make sure the rabbit has a clean bottom bright eyes and a coat clear of scurf as this could be mites once you have a rabbit you need to keep its rear end clean as it could get fly strike
shelly
xx
handle it lots so it is very tame. Don't give it cabbage to eat. Carrots with their tops on are good, but don't over feed it lettuce as it can give them diarhorrea
Answers:
Its cage should be indoors, were it will live longer. It needs to have a really large cage and needs to be able to play outside of its cage for at least 2 hours a day. Rabbits do NOT make good pets for children as rabbits do not like to be held or restrained. They live for 10 + years and require just about the same amount of care as a dog or cat. PLEASE GET A FIXED RABBIT! Nuetered/spayed rabbits are happier and they dont chew, dig and spray as much. A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay (alfalfa, timothy or oat), water and fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities. Make sure your house is "bunny proofed" as cords and wires are a major concern. Their teeth NEVER stop growing and therefore you should provide wood blocks and vets trimming their teeth. Rabbits need to be groomed often.
Here are suggested veggies:
Alfalfa, radish %26 clover sprouts
Basil
Beet greens (tops)*
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*
Brussels sprouts
Carrot %26 carrot tops*
Celery
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens*
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)*
Endive*
Escarole
Green peppers
Kale (!)*
Mint
Mustard greens*
Parsley*
Pea pods (the flat edible kind)*
Peppermint leaves
Raddichio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*
Spinach (!)*
Watercress*
Wheat grass
love and attention, so he will have a long and happy life, good luck.
hutch and run
nice garden with no holes!
they adore dandy lion leaves
plenty of water,
clean hutch out daily
you don't say what type of rabbit!
i have a lop and they are very very lazy!!!
oh! and put a football in the run,mine loves
to play football!!!
lots off grooming and handling..
honest!!!
dont keep in cage
give vegetables to eat
you need a good size hutch with either a run connected to it (which is easier as rabbits dont like to be handled very much once out of the baby phase)or a playpen if indoors, being couped up in a small hutch will only make it depressed and will cause behaviour problems, of course - plenty of food water and hay, toys to keep him/her stimulated and please get your rabbit spayed/neutered - will reduce hormones in both sexes and help prevent cancer. and watch out for flystrike which is nasty - you can spray their bottom with lavender which the flys dont like.
Make sure you have your rabbit injections every year/6mths for mxyamotosis.
My rabbit loves his football too !!
Rechargeable batteries... (I am sorry, I couldn't resist... even though you said no silly answers).
make sure it has carrotts to chew on, also get it a run so it can enjoy time out on the grass as well- also make sure you clean its cage often and keep its backside clean - so it does not get an infection.
There's so much you need to know if you want a happy rabbit. You need to get at least one rabbit care book, that way you have the information on hand when you need it.
Just go to your local pet store or buy one off amazon. It's really important and they contain really good information.
But before you get the rabbit make sure you have prepared for it well enough, you need a big enough hutch! I've seen too many rabbits in hutches too small and that's because theyre available almost everywhere. Just cos ur local petshop sells a hutch doesnt mean it is big enough. It should be half a metre in height (excluding the legs) and have lots of living space. Also get a run, because rabbits are designed to run!!
Have fun!
We have two rabbits. Just make sure that you keep plenty of hay in it's sleeping place and saawdust in the other. Give it plenty of rabbit food, ours eats about 2 bowlfulls a day. Don't give lettuce as it gives them the runs. Plenty of fresh water and exercise- you can get special harnesses for them and take them out as you would a dog. Really, they are so easy to look after.
1. Buy timothy hay and feed it timothy hay whenever it runs out
2. Rabbits need to be taken out a lot so make sure you have somewhere for it to play and a playpen or something.
3. It needs to have a big cage with a little house for privacy
4. It needs a loving and caring owner
5. They are best to be housed with their own species, but are better alone, do not house them with guinea pigs, rats, or especially snakes. It can be very dangerous
6. Somewhere for it to go if you go on vacation
7. The proper Nutrition
Buy or build it a large weatherproof hutch for starters most of those you see in pet shops are too small it should be at least two foot above ground level out the way of cats and dogs. It will need clean dry hay or straw for bedding in a sheltered box or better still a cubby hole. Rabbit food as sold in in pet shops is okay but it also needs green food, fresh dandy lion leaves are better than lettuce also a raw carrot or chunk of turnip are essential for healthy teeth and clean fresh water ( not milk ) should always be provided and will need it's hutch cleaning at least once a week. If it is young the more it is gently handled the tamer it will become. Enjoy.
ask lots of questions when you pick it up,what food its already on for instance as they have delicate tums and if you change their diet it may cause problems.if you are keeping it indoors you will need a large cage with a house in it also a litter tray as they can be trained to use one,feed small amounts of pellets,afew greens but lots of good quality hay,oxbow timothy hay is very good.plenty of fresh water is needed too.take it to your vet as soon as possible for a check up and advice on needed vaccinations,also arrange for it to be neutered or spayed,this is important as your bun will feel much better after their op,females have a high risk of uterine cancer if not spayed plus they can be aggressive due to the hormonal inbalances,males too.if its to be an outdoor bun then a good solid large weatherproof hutch with a run for exercise.you must bunny proof your home and garden.provide things for the bun to play with and to chew,they can become very bored and lonely if not handled and played with.there are many good books that explain most of what you need to know,but remember they are very intelligent and have characters of their own.join an internet group for advice and support, yahoo groups uk pet rabbits for instance.you can learn their body language and know how to respond to their actions.they are a joy to care for and very loving creatures.take things slow at first so they will learn to trust you,and then just enjoy their binky dances,if your bun licks your hand or face,as mine do,they are telling you that they love and trust you.i could go on and on but i'll stop now.enjoy
The most important health issue of all is DONT GET IT FROM A PET SHOP! they get really bad teeth and lots of them carry infections. Go to a breeder or a resuce centre.
Other than that if you make sure it gets lots of exercise and fresh food. Lots of environmental enrichment and love, then you will have a very very happy and healthy rabbit.
If you live in an area with wild rabbits you may also want to get your rabbit some jabs, kinda like the ones dogs get, to protect agains any diseases the wild ones may pass on.
Have fun with your new rabbit :)
Only advice I would give anyone BEFORE purchasing / receiving any pet is to read all you can about them, buy a decent book or borrow one from the library. Try not to get annoyed when you find that every book by a different author has contradicting opinions on welfare/husbandry! Its not just rabbit books - it's EVERY book on any animal.
Anyway, when you have gained sufficient confidence and knowledge, take your bunny home and register him/her with your vet. A general health profile and some proffesional advice will benefit both you and your rabbit in the long run.
Talk about innocculations (injections against viruses/diseases), and ask about neutering.
You can also join or obtain more information on your beloved bunny by contacting the Rabbit Welfare Association / Rabbit Welfare Fund on (UK) 01403 267658 or you can e-mail them: http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk
Best of luck - oh, and have fun choosing a name.
make sure the seller shows you the front teeth the top 2 should over lap the bottom 2 make sure the seller tells you what you rabbit has been eatting as rabbit don't like sudden change in food the best age to buy a rabbit is 8 wks old %26 most important don't feed rabbits lettuce it's not suitable for rabbits and gives them upset tummy make sure the rabbit has a clean bottom bright eyes and a coat clear of scurf as this could be mites once you have a rabbit you need to keep its rear end clean as it could get fly strike
shelly
xx
handle it lots so it is very tame. Don't give it cabbage to eat. Carrots with their tops on are good, but don't over feed it lettuce as it can give them diarhorrea
We are having a fun horse show at my yard anybody any good ideas for games?
Or any ideas we can do?
Answers:
Cloverleaf barrels, pole bending, scavenger hunt, egg in spoon race(have them hold the spoon in their mouth or the hand they're not using) musical barrel s( you get off your horse when the music stops or some one shouts stop and when the music starts or they say go run to a barrel, push it down and the people on the barrels keep the horse they were riding and the others swich horses.
Horse shoes
You can do relay races, red light green light, obstacle races, jumping (you have enough skill), etc. HAVE REFRESHMENTS! If you are rich and can spend 60 bucks on each person, get camelbacks(they are water sacks you can carry on your back and have a plastic hose for you to drink out of; they are perfect for when you are riding horses) for each person.
make scavenger hunt have a person go find one thing then switch and so on and so forth or u can make little jumps and lead him over with a person on the back just riding is fun for me
I like "touch wood" Its a version of comand class, where everytime "Touch wood" is called, every rider has 3 seconds to touch the fence with her hand. You need a decent sized ring, a buch of riders, and a few people to judge. You can do it at any gait, chnge directiosn, ect.
Answers:
Cloverleaf barrels, pole bending, scavenger hunt, egg in spoon race(have them hold the spoon in their mouth or the hand they're not using) musical barrel s( you get off your horse when the music stops or some one shouts stop and when the music starts or they say go run to a barrel, push it down and the people on the barrels keep the horse they were riding and the others swich horses.
Horse shoes
You can do relay races, red light green light, obstacle races, jumping (you have enough skill), etc. HAVE REFRESHMENTS! If you are rich and can spend 60 bucks on each person, get camelbacks(they are water sacks you can carry on your back and have a plastic hose for you to drink out of; they are perfect for when you are riding horses) for each person.
make scavenger hunt have a person go find one thing then switch and so on and so forth or u can make little jumps and lead him over with a person on the back just riding is fun for me
I like "touch wood" Its a version of comand class, where everytime "Touch wood" is called, every rider has 3 seconds to touch the fence with her hand. You need a decent sized ring, a buch of riders, and a few people to judge. You can do it at any gait, chnge directiosn, ect.
We are getting 2 hamsters tomorrow. What is the best kind to get. They will be living in same cage.?
Answers:
Two of the same sex!
Syrian Hamsters are solitary and although they live together as babies and are often seen caged together in pet shops or at the breeders, as the hamsters mature their solitary instinct develops. Syrian Hamsters will not, therefore, usually tolerate the company of another hamster once they reach approximately 6-10 weeks of age when fighting starts to occur.
Dwarf hamsters are sociable and will usually live happily in pairs or groups of mixed or single sexes of their own kind. Different species of dwarf hamsters should not be housed together as they have very different temperament and characters and do not inhabit the same areas or meet in the wild.
Two females. Two males will fight and a male and a female will breed. It depends what size of hamster you want. I think the most common ones are Dwarf and Teddy Bear. Dwarf hamsters are small and Teddy bears get alot bigger.
I have a teddy bear, but all are cute to me. If you are getting to of the same sex, keep in mind that even though they have good temperments, if they are not a litter mate, they will eventually become aggressive toward each other.
According to www.ahc.com, pet hamsters are usually housed singly. Sexually mature females must not be housed together because of their inevitable aggressiveness toward each other.
For more information, you may want to check out:
www.ahc.umn.edu/rar/MNAALAS/Ha... . It's full of info about hamsters and their care.
Also, the type of hamster will depend on what type of housing you already have for them. Housing units are specifically tailored towards different breeds of hamsters. For instance, you would not buy a unit made for a dwarf hamster if you have a teddy bear and vice versa. The pet store should be able to help you out with your pet.
BTW, when youget your pet, check out their purchase policy.
Most, if not all, cannot guarantee the age and sex of an animal, so you may want to choose a pet place that is very knowledgeable in that sort of thing.
Definately same sex. I'd actually get a gerbil. They tend to be more friendly. Either way both get along when with others of its kind. I have to warn you though, when I had three gerbils, and were together, they ended up fighting. They were COMPLETELY fine for the first 2 years, but then they got at each other and I had to separate them. It wasn't all that pretty. :S
NEVER put 2 hamsters in one cage they will fight like crazy and one will die. IF you put them in one cage section it off. And the BEST hamster to get is a Dwarf or long-haired hamster they are calm and don't bite.
I prefer teddys %26 black bears. These cant live together.
Russian dwarfs have a tendency to be very very nasty, but can live in a community.
Cinese dwarfs are timid, but can also live in the same comunity.
If you are going to get 2 hamsters in the same cage get 2 of the same breed or they will fight and kill eachother. Russian and/or Robrovski hammies are great together. Just get the opposite sex so they dont have babies. Good luck!
I like how you looked into both of these. I would go with the Russians only because of the 2 they are more easily handled due to size. Where Robo's are only 2" full grown, the Russian is 3"-4" in length. I have a few with other medical problems that are only 2" long. The Robo however is less likely to nip, whereas a Russian nips quickly and hard at times. They take more time to tame.I used to breed Russians at one time, but have since stopped and now devote my time, money and energy into saving the small animals of all breeds. I copied this for you about each of them so you can read of their differences.
"Campbells Russian Dwarf Hamster
Scientific Name: Phodopus Cambelli
Country of Origin: Central Asia, Northern Russia, Mongolia, and Northern China
Lifespan: About 1 to 2 years
Size and Weight: 10 to 12 cm and 50g to 75g
Other Important Facts: This hamster lives in sand dunes in the wild and benefits from shallow dish of chinchilla dust. Males tend to be larger than females with a longer body as opposed to females short, round, and plump body. They often release oils similar to those of ducks. Russian Hamsters should be bought in pairs, because they are a sociable group. The hamsters need to be housed in a glass as they can squeez through the bars of many hamster cages. The Russian Dwarf is not ideal for young children, because it is more prone to nip due to clumsy handling than the Syrian hamster."
"Roborovski Dwarf Hamster
Scientific Name: Phodopus Roborovski
Country of Origin: Central Asia, Northern Russia, Mongolia, and Northern China
Lifespan: About 3 to 3 1/2 years
Size and Weight: 4 to 5cm and 20g to 25g
Other Important Facts: The Roboroski hamster is becoming increasingly more available in pet stores. It is fast and very lively, but rarely nip. This hamster is not normally recommended to the first time hamster owner, as they can be tricky to handle. Roboroski hamsters are very sociable and should be bought in pairs of the same sex although many pet stores cannot sex these hamsters confidently. Roboroski hamsters should never be housed in small cages despite their small size and require at least a 24" X 12" glass tank or plastic cage. They should never be housed in barred cages, because they will squeeze through the bars or may get half stuck."
All dwarfs must be fed a diet as if they have diabetes since they are very prone to it. Simply don't give them any corn, peas, or carrots (fresh or dried of each veggie). They can have no fruits or commercially bought treat sold out there unless they have no sugar, corn syrup, mollasses, or any other sweeteners in it. I've yet to find any like that. You need to watch it on sunflower seeds and peanuts, its best not give them at all or only a couple times a week as a treat. Our dwarfs get 1 peanut in shell once a month for a special treat.
Now when choosing your two dwarfs, get 2 that are as close to the same age as possible and same sex, an older dwarf will try to injure the younger one or possible kill it. Take my word on this I lost one this way a long time ago. The books didn't say about this happening, but once I got a computer I looked it up online and found out the information.
I have since become small animal rescuer and own/caregiver to 93 pets which varies all the time on how many we have. We have Winter Whites and Russian dwarfs that were rescued and Rusians that we bred over 17 months ago still with us due to cancer in the line. The last one was a true biter and will need a lot of work to get calmed down. My one son specializes in the biters. We only have had one hamster of any breed he couldn't tame. A Russian dwarf that has genitic history of cancer including brain cancer, was born to us over 17 months ago and the vet suspects a brain tumor due to the extreme biting, plus he's blind from a fight as a 4 month old with a male sibiling. He adapted to this, but the blindness contributes to his aggressiveness behavior. He is housed with a male Syrian who cares for him (they were raised together since 8 days old). That's another story though.
We do house out dwarfs in Super Pet wire top w/plastic bottom cages, we've yet to have any escape, but mine are all older adults too. Don't use the S.A.M. Here %26 There brand cages, the bars are set with no support in the corners and a 8 week old rat can escape through, so a dwarf will have no problems escaping. The Critter Trail cages are great for thse little guys and are also made by Super Pet. Bars more then 1/2" apart are to wide or if you can move the bars apart with your finger it's not a good cage to use. Now for litter, only use litters made from paper products such as Critter care, Care Fresh (Ultra is very soft, but a bit more), or any other of the same. Use of any wood shaving or saw dust is never recommended due to the toxic fumes emitted when the urine mixes with the woods, this is more dangerous with ceder or pine. Aspen has been linked with many small animals and allergies to it, which may include sneezing to scratching/hairloss to a respiratory infection. We used to use aspen ourselves until we noticed several were starting to constantly sneeze when brough to our home. The vet said it's from using wood shaving or saw dust. We started using the paper products and now only have sneezing problems when we bring a rescue into our home where wood shavings was used. My vet has me keep a bottle of antibiotic drops for the allergic reactions used in either the eyes or nose and it usually clears with 3-4 days of use, if not a trip to vet is needed and maybe some further antibiotics is necessary.
Some things to be aware of that a Russian dwarf can get is the diabetes an other is cancer which comes is several forms. One is a lumpy exterior tumor usually on the lower abdomen, another are tumors under the skin that can protrude in the chest. Another like I've experienced is the brain tumor which seems less likely, I've only had 3 in over 40+ dwarfs. All were related though. Winter Whites in addition to diabetes can get Glacoma and go blind.
Syrian's have to live alone, but i believe the dwarfs can live together,.
Ways to make organic fly repellent for horses an dogs?
Answers:
This website has alot of good recipes that actually work!
http://www.showhorsepromotions.com/horse...
I have been told that a 50/50 mix of dettol and white vinegar works well
Haven't tried it as yet - that's next week ( daughter's horse has sweet itch)
If you can't make your own, buy "skin so soft" from Avon. It works, and it's totally safe for people and animals.
Wat shall i call my baby rat (femail) ?!?
my rat had 15 babies and my mum said i can keep three ! but im struggling on names what can i call one of them ?
Answers:
Make sure they're all the same gender (or separated properly!).
I assume you plan on keeping all females.
- Serenity
- Jasmine
- Shianne
Bailey
Bonny
Bertie
What are you going to do with the other babies?
Call her Hilary Clinton!!!
it deoends on the color%26lt;looks,or personality!for example:if she loved running around you could call her speedy!or if she was white she could be marshmellow!i hope you find a good name!good luck!
p.s.Rose or bella is a pretty name!
ok well what color is it???
if its white name it snowball or fluffy or somein
if its black name it midnight or moony or somein like dat
if its brown name it cocoa or chocolate
i had 3 pet rats once and called one of them serendipity . . . because she was the runt of the litter and everyone thought that she wouldnt make it . . . but she did . . . we had a black one that we named shadow . . . and a white one that we named casper . . . i hope this helps
Can I have 1
Answers:
Make sure they're all the same gender (or separated properly!).
I assume you plan on keeping all females.
- Serenity
- Jasmine
- Shianne
Bailey
Bonny
Bertie
What are you going to do with the other babies?
Call her Hilary Clinton!!!
it deoends on the color%26lt;looks,or personality!for example:if she loved running around you could call her speedy!or if she was white she could be marshmellow!i hope you find a good name!good luck!
p.s.Rose or bella is a pretty name!
ok well what color is it???
if its white name it snowball or fluffy or somein
if its black name it midnight or moony or somein like dat
if its brown name it cocoa or chocolate
i had 3 pet rats once and called one of them serendipity . . . because she was the runt of the litter and everyone thought that she wouldnt make it . . . but she did . . . we had a black one that we named shadow . . . and a white one that we named casper . . . i hope this helps
Can I have 1
Wat kinda stuff will we have in the year 2017?
Answers:
I'm really praying that we'll have a better health care system and homelessness and hunger will be a thing of the past. Guess that's just my silly pipe dream!
random..why not 2020..lol im picturing lotsa sky scrapers
A playstation 9 maybe? lol
Maybe we'll have a spell-check that they can implant into your extremely small brain to make you spell properly.
That would be good, wouldn't it?
Pets? Maybe ones that are smart enough to do household chores, so that their owner has more time to walk them!
that's only 10 yrs from now.. likely pretty much the same stuff.. just improved .. always improving and have more shyte to waste money on.. lol
even smaller electrical goods,hotter summer and hopefully less immigrants!
will we even be here?
Oh god, the possibilities. O_O We'll probably have virtual reality in everyone's houses. My friend thinks that there'll be a "Playstation Beams-Into-Your-Mind." D=
with genetics, probably talking pets. sounds cool. =)
no one got it right in the past ... so what makes you think they will get it right in the future
solar powered phones! will be great for gps and buisness men!
Wat is the most popular dog breed in the U.S.A?
i am getting another dog and i want one that is popular!!!!!!!!...
Answers:
1. Labrador retrievers
2. Golden retrievers
3. Yorkshire terriers
4. German shepherds
5. Beagles
6. Dachshunds
7. Boxers
8. Poodles
9. Shih Tzus
10. Miniature Schnauzer
Laradors and goldens they top it all. My mom doesn't like them she thinks they are too friendly.
golden retrievers are
Well around me (in Arizona), what I see the most of is labs, goldens, pits, chihuahuas, shih tzus, and all kinds of other mixes. I am a groomer so I see a lot of dogs.
I would recommend checking the pound and shelters. Also petfinder.com
And with popular breeds, keep in mind, some of them are so over bred that they have lost a lot of their good qualites and intelligence. And a lot of overbred dogs develop health conditions too.
The most popular is the Golden Retriver and the Labrador Retriever. Because they are very friendly and make very good pets. And they love kids, teenagers and everybody!
Answer No. 1 is correct.
I have a Yellow Lab-- he is a wonderful dog- he's friendly but not TOO friendly. If someone were to mess with his family, he'd chew them a new one.
Make sure you research and buy from a reputable breeder and if you aren't "up on it", get some instruction on obedience training and you'll have the best dog in the world. (I know I do).
Have fun!
By far the most trendy dog is the west highland terrier. They've popped up in movies such as, "Must love dogs" and in numerous commercials. They make trips down the runway with Victoria Secret's angels. The breed was almost lost durring WW2, but has made a steady comeback in numbers and their popularity is on the rise.
Answers:
1. Labrador retrievers
2. Golden retrievers
3. Yorkshire terriers
4. German shepherds
5. Beagles
6. Dachshunds
7. Boxers
8. Poodles
9. Shih Tzus
10. Miniature Schnauzer
Laradors and goldens they top it all. My mom doesn't like them she thinks they are too friendly.
golden retrievers are
Well around me (in Arizona), what I see the most of is labs, goldens, pits, chihuahuas, shih tzus, and all kinds of other mixes. I am a groomer so I see a lot of dogs.
I would recommend checking the pound and shelters. Also petfinder.com
And with popular breeds, keep in mind, some of them are so over bred that they have lost a lot of their good qualites and intelligence. And a lot of overbred dogs develop health conditions too.
The most popular is the Golden Retriver and the Labrador Retriever. Because they are very friendly and make very good pets. And they love kids, teenagers and everybody!
Answer No. 1 is correct.
I have a Yellow Lab-- he is a wonderful dog- he's friendly but not TOO friendly. If someone were to mess with his family, he'd chew them a new one.
Make sure you research and buy from a reputable breeder and if you aren't "up on it", get some instruction on obedience training and you'll have the best dog in the world. (I know I do).
Have fun!
By far the most trendy dog is the west highland terrier. They've popped up in movies such as, "Must love dogs" and in numerous commercials. They make trips down the runway with Victoria Secret's angels. The breed was almost lost durring WW2, but has made a steady comeback in numbers and their popularity is on the rise.
Wat horse color has the best teperment?
just wondering dont forget buckskins
Answers:
Color has nothing to do with temperment. How the horse is handled, treated and breed does. You cant expect any animal to have a good temperment if it has been abused or neglected. Choose one that is calm, friendly, etc.
Temperment is not determined by color, but by genetics. Also a lot has to do with the owners. We had a horse once that was abused (not by us) mean as all get out. Bit my mom. I guess they're just like people kind of.
color?? thats like saying blacks are more angry than whites.do research
the color of the horse has nothing to do with temperment,breed might have something to do with the way an equine acts but definatly not color
but if it helps any i had a red roan appaloosa/qh cross as a child that was the sweetest horse ever,i have since had several different roan horses over the years and have always found them to have nice temperments,but i still think it is just the horse it's self not the color
The tempermant of a horse has nothing to do with it's color. Hot bloods tend to be fiestier and, well, hotter-headed than their cold- or warm-blooded peers. If you have virtually any expeirence with owning, leasing, or lesson taking, you'd know that. That question is like asking, "Do brown-haired people have neater handwriting than blonde-haired people?" There simply is no yes or no answer. Experiment with horses until you find a nice horse that suits your ability, weight, and tempermant ideals.
color has nothing to do with it.
Answers:
Color has nothing to do with temperment. How the horse is handled, treated and breed does. You cant expect any animal to have a good temperment if it has been abused or neglected. Choose one that is calm, friendly, etc.
Temperment is not determined by color, but by genetics. Also a lot has to do with the owners. We had a horse once that was abused (not by us) mean as all get out. Bit my mom. I guess they're just like people kind of.
color?? thats like saying blacks are more angry than whites.do research
the color of the horse has nothing to do with temperment,breed might have something to do with the way an equine acts but definatly not color
but if it helps any i had a red roan appaloosa/qh cross as a child that was the sweetest horse ever,i have since had several different roan horses over the years and have always found them to have nice temperments,but i still think it is just the horse it's self not the color
The tempermant of a horse has nothing to do with it's color. Hot bloods tend to be fiestier and, well, hotter-headed than their cold- or warm-blooded peers. If you have virtually any expeirence with owning, leasing, or lesson taking, you'd know that. That question is like asking, "Do brown-haired people have neater handwriting than blonde-haired people?" There simply is no yes or no answer. Experiment with horses until you find a nice horse that suits your ability, weight, and tempermant ideals.
color has nothing to do with it.
Was given a rabbit a couple of weeks ago.?
And have just grown some grass for her as I've been told they like it (she's a house rabbit). But my friend has told me she's too young to eat grass. Is this true?How old does she have to be for when I can introduce it to her?
Answers:
I've personally never heard that a rabbit has to be a certain age before you can introduce her to grass.
I dont think it should be a problem, as grass is helps rabbits with natural digestion.
Don't know but I need a rabbit leg.
after about six weeks. a slice of bread is good for rabbits.
Try this link.
wiat till she has atlast a few teeth.
At one year old they are usally ready to eat grass and rabbit food (carrots lettuce) while they are baby give them milk and little pecies of lettuce. Change it once and a while put soft chewable stuff.
if she is under 2 months no grass but she is a house rabbit she must like carrots
Answers:
I've personally never heard that a rabbit has to be a certain age before you can introduce her to grass.
I dont think it should be a problem, as grass is helps rabbits with natural digestion.
Don't know but I need a rabbit leg.
after about six weeks. a slice of bread is good for rabbits.
Try this link.
wiat till she has atlast a few teeth.
At one year old they are usally ready to eat grass and rabbit food (carrots lettuce) while they are baby give them milk and little pecies of lettuce. Change it once and a while put soft chewable stuff.
if she is under 2 months no grass but she is a house rabbit she must like carrots
Want to build a wood house for my rat, is Cedar safe?
I want to build a Cedar house for my rat, I know that certain types of wood are not good for them, such as pine shavings but I believe this to be because of dust particles. Does anyone know if Cedar would be OK for the house?
Answers:
Definitely NOT. Cedar wood has oils in it that make it toxic to rats. The same oils that make it smell good to us.
Both pine and cedar are very bad for rats, as bedding, shavings, or cage accessories.
it might eat at the house if you make it out of cedar, yet it wont have mites or fleas because cedar repeals pests.
As long as it is not treated lumber, it will be fine. You can treat the outside if you plan on putting the cage outside at all, but the inside should be untreated, unvarnished, and unpainted.
Just from experience with rats and ferrets- I wouldn't make a homemade cage from wood- wood tends to hold in odors and get pretty bad in a couple months, even with daily cleaning.
You could try making a wire one (you can buy rolls at Menards) or take a look at www.martinscages.com
yes it will be fine
no! ceder is not OK. my friend had a rat (notice i said "had" and not has) my friend put cedar shavings in her cage and not even a month later she died. and then i got a rat and i don't use pine or cedar( there was another type of wood but i can't remember it) my rat's still alive and I'm petting her right now, by the way her name is Ruffles you know like the brand of chips?
my point is "don't use Cedar or Pine" just for your little friends safety
No no no!! Cedar should never be used for any small animals. It contains toxins that affect the respiratory tract. Many breathing problems, lung failure, etc. that small animals suffer from are the result of owners buying cedar. I don't understand why the even sell it at the pet store.
Don't use cedar or pine, they are both known to be toxic to rodents.
As one person said, wood will get pretty foul over time. I would try to line it with something impervious if you can.
Chalice
Answers:
Definitely NOT. Cedar wood has oils in it that make it toxic to rats. The same oils that make it smell good to us.
Both pine and cedar are very bad for rats, as bedding, shavings, or cage accessories.
it might eat at the house if you make it out of cedar, yet it wont have mites or fleas because cedar repeals pests.
As long as it is not treated lumber, it will be fine. You can treat the outside if you plan on putting the cage outside at all, but the inside should be untreated, unvarnished, and unpainted.
Just from experience with rats and ferrets- I wouldn't make a homemade cage from wood- wood tends to hold in odors and get pretty bad in a couple months, even with daily cleaning.
You could try making a wire one (you can buy rolls at Menards) or take a look at www.martinscages.com
yes it will be fine
no! ceder is not OK. my friend had a rat (notice i said "had" and not has) my friend put cedar shavings in her cage and not even a month later she died. and then i got a rat and i don't use pine or cedar( there was another type of wood but i can't remember it) my rat's still alive and I'm petting her right now, by the way her name is Ruffles you know like the brand of chips?
my point is "don't use Cedar or Pine" just for your little friends safety
No no no!! Cedar should never be used for any small animals. It contains toxins that affect the respiratory tract. Many breathing problems, lung failure, etc. that small animals suffer from are the result of owners buying cedar. I don't understand why the even sell it at the pet store.
Don't use cedar or pine, they are both known to be toxic to rodents.
As one person said, wood will get pretty foul over time. I would try to line it with something impervious if you can.
Chalice
Walking stick bugs?!?
I just saw a person post that they have "walking stick bugs" in a response to someone else's question...the name intrigues me:
what is a "walking stick bug"
does anyone have any good links so I can further research this on my own---I'm very interested in learning as much as I can
thanks!
Answers:
Here is a set of links you might enjoy:
http://www.ivyhall.district96.k12.il.us/...
http://www.ivyhall.district96.k12.il.us/...
They're fascinating-looking bugs! :)
It's a long skinny bug that's brown or green that looks just like a stick. Long legs and pointy face. They're very nice as pets actually and I had a teach back in school who used to let us take them out of the cage and walk over the desk, never had one bite. Outside in the wild they eat a lot of pest bugs and normally you don't even notice them around. Just do a yahoo search for walking sticks.
Yeah go to this one= ) or the other 1 there are allot of different types of stick bugs= )
It's brown %26 looks like a stick - think super skinny praying mantis
Walking Stick Bugs are a long, very thin looking bug that looks like a small stick that has about 6 legs. (not sure how many) I see them a lot around the outside of my house, like clinging to the side of the house %26 etc. I pick them up and I have never been bitten so maybe they don't bite. I never hurt them b/c I heard they eat other bugs that are bad for our gardens %26 plants. I live in Pa. and I don't know how many states have this little creature. You would know one if you ever saw one. They look just like a stick..
what is a "walking stick bug"
does anyone have any good links so I can further research this on my own---I'm very interested in learning as much as I can
thanks!
Answers:
Here is a set of links you might enjoy:
http://www.ivyhall.district96.k12.il.us/...
http://www.ivyhall.district96.k12.il.us/...
They're fascinating-looking bugs! :)
It's a long skinny bug that's brown or green that looks just like a stick. Long legs and pointy face. They're very nice as pets actually and I had a teach back in school who used to let us take them out of the cage and walk over the desk, never had one bite. Outside in the wild they eat a lot of pest bugs and normally you don't even notice them around. Just do a yahoo search for walking sticks.
Yeah go to this one= ) or the other 1 there are allot of different types of stick bugs= )
It's brown %26 looks like a stick - think super skinny praying mantis
Walking Stick Bugs are a long, very thin looking bug that looks like a small stick that has about 6 legs. (not sure how many) I see them a lot around the outside of my house, like clinging to the side of the house %26 etc. I pick them up and I have never been bitten so maybe they don't bite. I never hurt them b/c I heard they eat other bugs that are bad for our gardens %26 plants. I live in Pa. and I don't know how many states have this little creature. You would know one if you ever saw one. They look just like a stick..
Walking my guinea pig?
can i walk my guinea pig? how far can i walk her with out with out her getting tired? should i carry her if she gets too tired.? any tips would help...
Answers:
guinea pigs don't need walking, they prefer to run around on their own in a large enclosure protected from anything i.e. cats
You can take your guinea pig outdoors, preferably in a play pen (unless your guinea pig is accepting of the idea of a harness, many get stressed out over those).
You can't walk your guinea pig around the neighborhood, but you can allow her to run around the front/backyard, supervised for a bit. They aren't followers, so they don't walk on a leash like a dog would.
yea do you have a leash? it depends you can walk her around the yard, but if she starts slowing down or looking tired then you can pick her up. Just keep an eye on her and make sure it's not too cold outside.
buy her/him a guinea pig treadmill. that's enough exercise for them.
only bigger pets get to be walked. get a dog if you really want to walk a pet.
There are harnesses you can buy for walking small pets, but frankly I don't walk my ratties as cats and other predators could try and get them and goes exactly the same for your guinea pig. Also G/Ps don't need walking. They like running around outside. Make sure you can a secure enclosure in your backyard so that cats etc don't try and get them for lunch!!
thats hesterical! You proabably shouldn't take her or him outside, if that is what you mean. It shouldn't walk on the sidewalk or on the grass. It could get hurt, but if you do want to take it outside ake a small fenced in area in your backyard. Make sure it is soft and any rocs or pebbles are removed from the area. Make sure it is fenced in though, so it won't run away. You could probably keep her outside for 10 or 15 minutes. If she likes it, maybe next time a little longer. Make sure to keep her safe and stay close to keep an eye on her, the last thing you would want is a runaway guinea pig!
you can walk her around the house, but be careful if you take her outside because their are lots of digs and cats that will see her as fair game. do not put a collar her neck, buy a small cat collar and put that on her body. walk slowy and watch wear ever she goes so you won't step on her. good luck!
they are best to be kept in their cages, but if you want you could try them on a small body harness. They are even more fun if you let the loose in a protected contained area indoors or outdoors. your choice. Outside: be sure to provide water and shelter. Hope this helps.
Absolutely no excersize wheels or harnesses. The harnesses are very bag for their spine. Guinea pigs have a fragile bone structure and you risk severly damaging her insides.
Guinea pigs do not run on wheels. They are not active animals like rats or chinchillas. Their spine does not bend in a curve like they would need for a wheel, and if you force a guinea pig to use one, it's spine will likely snap.
If you want to bring them outside, choose a shady spot and build them a pen. Always supervise, any domestic or feral animal including hawks, cats, dogs, etc. will try to get your pet for food.
The leashes sold in petshops are bad (yes I know they are made for guinea pigs), guinea pigs backs cannot cope with a harness. They aren't as flexible as rats or ferrets so a leash could easily snap their back if they struggle. Before I knew this I got mine a harness and they hated it anyway and got stressed out when I tried to put it on. They easily wriggle out of harnesses too.
People who say guinea pigs are not active are very wrong. All my guinea pigs run laps and 'popcorn' every single day - if yours does not do this then the cage is NOT big enough! Petshop cages/hutches are usually way too small for guinea pigs.
Answers:
guinea pigs don't need walking, they prefer to run around on their own in a large enclosure protected from anything i.e. cats
You can take your guinea pig outdoors, preferably in a play pen (unless your guinea pig is accepting of the idea of a harness, many get stressed out over those).
You can't walk your guinea pig around the neighborhood, but you can allow her to run around the front/backyard, supervised for a bit. They aren't followers, so they don't walk on a leash like a dog would.
yea do you have a leash? it depends you can walk her around the yard, but if she starts slowing down or looking tired then you can pick her up. Just keep an eye on her and make sure it's not too cold outside.
buy her/him a guinea pig treadmill. that's enough exercise for them.
only bigger pets get to be walked. get a dog if you really want to walk a pet.
There are harnesses you can buy for walking small pets, but frankly I don't walk my ratties as cats and other predators could try and get them and goes exactly the same for your guinea pig. Also G/Ps don't need walking. They like running around outside. Make sure you can a secure enclosure in your backyard so that cats etc don't try and get them for lunch!!
thats hesterical! You proabably shouldn't take her or him outside, if that is what you mean. It shouldn't walk on the sidewalk or on the grass. It could get hurt, but if you do want to take it outside ake a small fenced in area in your backyard. Make sure it is soft and any rocs or pebbles are removed from the area. Make sure it is fenced in though, so it won't run away. You could probably keep her outside for 10 or 15 minutes. If she likes it, maybe next time a little longer. Make sure to keep her safe and stay close to keep an eye on her, the last thing you would want is a runaway guinea pig!
you can walk her around the house, but be careful if you take her outside because their are lots of digs and cats that will see her as fair game. do not put a collar her neck, buy a small cat collar and put that on her body. walk slowy and watch wear ever she goes so you won't step on her. good luck!
they are best to be kept in their cages, but if you want you could try them on a small body harness. They are even more fun if you let the loose in a protected contained area indoors or outdoors. your choice. Outside: be sure to provide water and shelter. Hope this helps.
Absolutely no excersize wheels or harnesses. The harnesses are very bag for their spine. Guinea pigs have a fragile bone structure and you risk severly damaging her insides.
Guinea pigs do not run on wheels. They are not active animals like rats or chinchillas. Their spine does not bend in a curve like they would need for a wheel, and if you force a guinea pig to use one, it's spine will likely snap.
If you want to bring them outside, choose a shady spot and build them a pen. Always supervise, any domestic or feral animal including hawks, cats, dogs, etc. will try to get your pet for food.
The leashes sold in petshops are bad (yes I know they are made for guinea pigs), guinea pigs backs cannot cope with a harness. They aren't as flexible as rats or ferrets so a leash could easily snap their back if they struggle. Before I knew this I got mine a harness and they hated it anyway and got stressed out when I tried to put it on. They easily wriggle out of harnesses too.
People who say guinea pigs are not active are very wrong. All my guinea pigs run laps and 'popcorn' every single day - if yours does not do this then the cage is NOT big enough! Petshop cages/hutches are usually way too small for guinea pigs.
Waked Up,From a Wonder-Full Dream , To An Awfull NightMare?
Ok,my dream was about that I had many animals (and I love them) and I was happy.And...now is the bad moment,when I waked up,A spider was near me.He had i think 2 centimeters.He was near my head,exactly.Do you know the story with the boy which had 2 spiders in his ear?I think that if I didn`t wake up the spier went to my ear like in the boy.Ok this is another story.Come to my story again.I made a scream,i cryed and i tought we touched me.I never touched a spider.And I don`t want to do this.Why me?Why the person which cry when see a spider?What did I do to diserve that?
Answers:
I don't really understand your question. The boy that had 2 spiders in his ear was a freak incident. It's nothing of the norm. Read up on spiders and maybe you'll get over your fear.
What?
Answers:
I don't really understand your question. The boy that had 2 spiders in his ear was a freak incident. It's nothing of the norm. Read up on spiders and maybe you'll get over your fear.
What?
Vwat appen too mai bunny? It liek ttly got lost in teh liek ttly cool ice!!Wha shoold I do?!?!?
It liek ttly died somewear!! i iz ttly confuzled!! Wear iz my bunny!!?
Answers:
You should probably type in English if you want any help . . .
uhm...where is your spell checker?
You should calm down, and make posters with your pet on it. If you have pictures of it, that would be good. Describe it, and make sure to have a phone number where they can reach you. Good luck finding your bunny!
Um, another option would be to call the humane society in the area, they could probally find it.
Learn to spell and resubmit your question.
Good God please work on your English skills instead of getting a new pet.
Maybe you should try learning how to speak better english...but try to locate the rabbit.
Answers:
You should probably type in English if you want any help . . .
uhm...where is your spell checker?
You should calm down, and make posters with your pet on it. If you have pictures of it, that would be good. Describe it, and make sure to have a phone number where they can reach you. Good luck finding your bunny!
Um, another option would be to call the humane society in the area, they could probally find it.
Learn to spell and resubmit your question.
Good God please work on your English skills instead of getting a new pet.
Maybe you should try learning how to speak better english...but try to locate the rabbit.
Vets use the term 'Blue juice' to descibe the current drug of choice for animal euthanasia. What is real name?
Answers:
its called Euthatal.
Generally they mean a sodium phenobarbital mixture.
sorry my mind is a blank at the moment
Sodium Pentobarbital
Veterinary/Animal Science students - Help a girl out!?
So I'm going to start my Ana/Physio classes soon, and I'm looking for some good books/resources.
I already have:
- Mosby's Comprehensive Study Guide
- The Ninth Edition of The Merck Veterinary Manual
- My textbooks
I'm looking for:
- Any other great books that I can purchase either online or at the bookstore
- Any good anatomy based flash cards, charts, or books (ranging from pocket-pets/exotics, to domestic animals - large/farm animal related books a plus but not my concentration)
- Some good medicine/pharmacology charts, urinalysis %26 hematology information, dentistry and zoonosis books/sites/resources.
Help a girl out! ;))
Answers:
Do you know the Lane and Cooper book 'Veterinary Nursing'? It's the BIBLE for vet nurses and has everything you need to know about A+P - unless you're actually training as a vet??
Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/veterinary-nursing...
Also go on to www.amazon.com and type in 'anatomy and physiology' or 'veterinary' or 'animal science'
Chalice
Amazon has a book called "Laboratory Anatomy of the Rabbit" (http://www.amazon.com/laboratory-anatomy... I don't have it, but it's been recommended by several sources.
I already have:
- Mosby's Comprehensive Study Guide
- The Ninth Edition of The Merck Veterinary Manual
- My textbooks
I'm looking for:
- Any other great books that I can purchase either online or at the bookstore
- Any good anatomy based flash cards, charts, or books (ranging from pocket-pets/exotics, to domestic animals - large/farm animal related books a plus but not my concentration)
- Some good medicine/pharmacology charts, urinalysis %26 hematology information, dentistry and zoonosis books/sites/resources.
Help a girl out! ;))
Answers:
Do you know the Lane and Cooper book 'Veterinary Nursing'? It's the BIBLE for vet nurses and has everything you need to know about A+P - unless you're actually training as a vet??
Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/veterinary-nursing...
Also go on to www.amazon.com and type in 'anatomy and physiology' or 'veterinary' or 'animal science'
Chalice
Amazon has a book called "Laboratory Anatomy of the Rabbit" (http://www.amazon.com/laboratory-anatomy... I don't have it, but it's been recommended by several sources.
Veterinary Technician?
Is anyone a vet tech. If you are, what's it like. What do you do? Is is worthwhile?
-Thanks
Answers:
i was a vet tech, now i'm in vet school. i enjoyed being a tech very much. where i worked i got to take histories from clients, educate them on basic diseases, and preventative, do lab work, draw blood, assist in surgery, medicate hospitalized animals, call clients to follow up on problems, and dental cleanings. Some vets underutilize their techs and they are left just cleaning cages and looking at fecals. Other vets like the one i worked for are very good at understanding what a trained tech is capable of and let them do alot. You get to work with animals, interact with clients, do medical stuff all without the stress of being the vet and making the right medical calls. The biggest draw back is the poor pay. You will not make much money being a tech and if you work for a small practice your benefits may be skimpy to nonexistant. I loved the job, but if i were single would not been able to survive on the paycheck i got. If you like all that medical stuff and don't mind touching people a RN gets paid much better.
I am not now a vet tech, but I have been in the past. It was fun, I enjoyed it a lot. One of the things that appealed to me is that it's not a same thing day-in, day-out sort of job. I get bored easily and couldn't stand to sit at a desk all day. Some of the things that I did as a vet tech included general grooming (nail clips, wing trims etc), taking vital signs, administering medication, staying at the hospital on weekends or holidays to care for and watch the in-patients (this task was rotated among the employees), assisting in surgeries and with anesthetic, holding animals (for shots, examinations or what have you) for the vet when they were not being cooperative, that sort of thing. It was very worthwhile, and I may do it again. I did not like some of the people I worked with, namely the vet's wife who ran the office and for some reason, loathed animals and all the rest of us for liking them (how she ended up being a vet's wife, I'll never know).
I was a veterinary tech a few years back. I got to clean cages, assist in surgery, clean and sterilize the equipment, help the vet with lots of procedures, ran fecal samples, watched autopsies (yuck!) and also held animals for him while they were put to sleep. All for just above minimum wage. But I did have fun, got to meet lots of interesting people and animals, and helped steer me into nursing school where now, as an RN, I get paid much better.
-Thanks
Answers:
i was a vet tech, now i'm in vet school. i enjoyed being a tech very much. where i worked i got to take histories from clients, educate them on basic diseases, and preventative, do lab work, draw blood, assist in surgery, medicate hospitalized animals, call clients to follow up on problems, and dental cleanings. Some vets underutilize their techs and they are left just cleaning cages and looking at fecals. Other vets like the one i worked for are very good at understanding what a trained tech is capable of and let them do alot. You get to work with animals, interact with clients, do medical stuff all without the stress of being the vet and making the right medical calls. The biggest draw back is the poor pay. You will not make much money being a tech and if you work for a small practice your benefits may be skimpy to nonexistant. I loved the job, but if i were single would not been able to survive on the paycheck i got. If you like all that medical stuff and don't mind touching people a RN gets paid much better.
I am not now a vet tech, but I have been in the past. It was fun, I enjoyed it a lot. One of the things that appealed to me is that it's not a same thing day-in, day-out sort of job. I get bored easily and couldn't stand to sit at a desk all day. Some of the things that I did as a vet tech included general grooming (nail clips, wing trims etc), taking vital signs, administering medication, staying at the hospital on weekends or holidays to care for and watch the in-patients (this task was rotated among the employees), assisting in surgeries and with anesthetic, holding animals (for shots, examinations or what have you) for the vet when they were not being cooperative, that sort of thing. It was very worthwhile, and I may do it again. I did not like some of the people I worked with, namely the vet's wife who ran the office and for some reason, loathed animals and all the rest of us for liking them (how she ended up being a vet's wife, I'll never know).
I was a veterinary tech a few years back. I got to clean cages, assist in surgery, clean and sterilize the equipment, help the vet with lots of procedures, ran fecal samples, watched autopsies (yuck!) and also held animals for him while they were put to sleep. All for just above minimum wage. But I did have fun, got to meet lots of interesting people and animals, and helped steer me into nursing school where now, as an RN, I get paid much better.
Veterinarians help please!!My cat is looking sickly..?
hes lost a lot of weight the last 4 months and is loosing the hair on the side of his face and its really red.. he scratches it constantly so i used some anti itch spray for hot spots and i swear i think it made it get worse... i also put ear mite medicine in his ear a yesterday , because someone told me it may be that...nothing seems to work,what is this?? is it contagious?i have other cats in the house also...
Answers:
Although some people claim to be DVM's on the site, there are many people who make false claims. You shouldn't heed advice just because someone makes a statement like: "I'm a vet" (I've seen quite a few fakers on here).
In any case:
These problems cannot be fixed without a proper diagnosis, which cannot be done online. You will have to take the cat to a veterinarian.
They will perform a skin scraping analysis to determine what is causing the itchyness/redness. It could be anything from ringworm, to allergies, to hot spots, to mange.
From your description it sounds like the cat has developed a secondary infection and will need antibiotics to kill the bacteria.
As for the "ear mite" problem:
You cannot diagnose demodectic mange over the internet.
You need to have a proper skin scraping analysis done and it needs to be looked at under a microscope in order to determine if these are indeed demodex mites.
Your veterinarian will be able to do this, identify the mites life cycle, the infestation rate and give you proper medication that will eliminate the problem.
Please do not try to self diagnose/medicate your pet without seeking professional advice.
If the cat has something like ringworm, then yes it can be contagious to the other pets and you as well.
EDIT:
If you plan on taking your pets in this Friday, call your veterinarian and ask if there is anything you can do in the meantime.
Hope this helps!
You need to take him to a vet, not just post your question online. They won't know what it is untill they see the cat in person.
I would book a consult with your local vet right away...It could be cancer...imbedded grass seed in the cheek...malignant tumour...could be anything..definatley go see your vet asap!!!
People like you shouldn't have pets.
First of all, quarantine that cat IMMEDIATELY. If it is contagious, you don't want to risk passing it around.
Second, TAKE YOUR CAT TO THE VET.
I am in awe that you would wait 4 FRICKIN MONTHS for it to get THAT bad and then you only posted a question online. If it were up to me, I would probably take that cat off your hands. What you're doing can be considered neglect.
If you can't take an animal to the vet if you even think there may be something wrong, you don't deserve to have pets. Period. Get your act together.
If the cat is that bad don't wait until Friday that's too far away. Take it today. If you've got time to log in and post on here you could have been to a vet. If it's your vet that won't have an opening until then, go find another vet or an emergency one. Why make the cat suffer any more then it already has . You have no way of knowing if it's contageous so keep the cat secluded from your other cats just in case. He may have mange and it's really contageous to the other cats. I've had small animals with mange and hair loss, weight loss, and severe scratching all were symptoms. Only a skin scraping will verify or rule out having mange. The weight loss could also be from something else, the vet may consider testing for things like FeLv to rule out that chance. Even indoor kept cats can be carriers from birth with some diseases.
Answers:
Although some people claim to be DVM's on the site, there are many people who make false claims. You shouldn't heed advice just because someone makes a statement like: "I'm a vet" (I've seen quite a few fakers on here).
In any case:
These problems cannot be fixed without a proper diagnosis, which cannot be done online. You will have to take the cat to a veterinarian.
They will perform a skin scraping analysis to determine what is causing the itchyness/redness. It could be anything from ringworm, to allergies, to hot spots, to mange.
From your description it sounds like the cat has developed a secondary infection and will need antibiotics to kill the bacteria.
As for the "ear mite" problem:
You cannot diagnose demodectic mange over the internet.
You need to have a proper skin scraping analysis done and it needs to be looked at under a microscope in order to determine if these are indeed demodex mites.
Your veterinarian will be able to do this, identify the mites life cycle, the infestation rate and give you proper medication that will eliminate the problem.
Please do not try to self diagnose/medicate your pet without seeking professional advice.
If the cat has something like ringworm, then yes it can be contagious to the other pets and you as well.
EDIT:
If you plan on taking your pets in this Friday, call your veterinarian and ask if there is anything you can do in the meantime.
Hope this helps!
You need to take him to a vet, not just post your question online. They won't know what it is untill they see the cat in person.
I would book a consult with your local vet right away...It could be cancer...imbedded grass seed in the cheek...malignant tumour...could be anything..definatley go see your vet asap!!!
People like you shouldn't have pets.
First of all, quarantine that cat IMMEDIATELY. If it is contagious, you don't want to risk passing it around.
Second, TAKE YOUR CAT TO THE VET.
I am in awe that you would wait 4 FRICKIN MONTHS for it to get THAT bad and then you only posted a question online. If it were up to me, I would probably take that cat off your hands. What you're doing can be considered neglect.
If you can't take an animal to the vet if you even think there may be something wrong, you don't deserve to have pets. Period. Get your act together.
If the cat is that bad don't wait until Friday that's too far away. Take it today. If you've got time to log in and post on here you could have been to a vet. If it's your vet that won't have an opening until then, go find another vet or an emergency one. Why make the cat suffer any more then it already has . You have no way of knowing if it's contageous so keep the cat secluded from your other cats just in case. He may have mange and it's really contageous to the other cats. I've had small animals with mange and hair loss, weight loss, and severe scratching all were symptoms. Only a skin scraping will verify or rule out having mange. The weight loss could also be from something else, the vet may consider testing for things like FeLv to rule out that chance. Even indoor kept cats can be carriers from birth with some diseases.
Vet school?
i am 14 yrs old and planning to be a vet. what gpa do you need to get in?, what are some of the top collage in the U.S? how hard is it to get in?, how high do your major test scores have to be?, did you get your 4yr degree 1st?, what is the best and worst part of being a vet?, any longterm benefits? payrole? how hard are the college coarses? where does university of minnesota rank in vet college status?, what are the coases you took? besides volenteering how else can i prepare for vet school?, how are the tests? bassically give me all the 411 on vet school!
Answers:
I am applying this summer, so I have researched all of this stuff.
Things they look at GPA (over a 3.6 to be considered, preferably over a 3.7, and that is in undergraduate college- not high school, which GPA only matters for the undergrad school). Top colleges- depends on what you are going for really. I know from my researching (I am going into equine or wildlife) that UC-Davis is a great school overall, and CO has a great Equine, U of Minnesota has a great wildlife. It is a TON cheaper to go to vet school in your state than out of state- $17,000 compared to 35,000.
It is difficult to get in- esp if you are going the dog/cat route, which everyone wants to do. If you pick any other areas, it is easier to get in, but you still need to meet all the guidlines. I have been told not to worry much with what I have right now by the admissions counselor. 3.87 gpa,experience (10 yrs training horses, 1 yr in an emergency vet clinic, 2 yrs supervising at a zoo) and GREs (mine were on the lower end for all but writing) of verb- 590, Quant 680, writing- 5). Those three sections are the main areas they look at.
Test scores: You are talking about the GRE test, which almost all require (U of M does for sure) and some also require the Biology subject test by the same makers of the GRE, something you do not have to worry about for another 6 yrs :)
As for the undergraduate (4 yr degree), I will graduate with a bio major, Wildlife major, Captive wildlife, and chemistry minors (5 yr degree for me). Most have a bachelors degree when they apply, but not all. All you really need are the required coursework on the admissions page of the vet school (all are a little different).
U of MN is really good for livestock and wildlife from what I have heard. I do not know about anything else, but I would consider going there if it wasn't so much more expensive for me ( I live in WI).
As for vet school experience, get experience in what you want. For instance, if you want to go into horses, work at a horse stable. If you like cats and dogs- humane society and open your own dog sitting business, etc. You also need a year or two working at a vet's office to be considered which is so they can see you know what you are getting into. Vet clinic experience is preferred, but get whatever animal experience that you can. Owning a pet does not count as experience in most cases, because everyone has a dog or cat.
Try to get some unique experience that would stand out on your entrance papers.
As for salary- from what I have heard and read, it is 30k starting from vet school, and median is about 60-70k once established.
If you like U of MN, I would take my undergraduate there to make it easier to get into their vet school.
Hello...umm, that's alot of questions..I can tell you NOW is the time to start...vet schools are hard to get into, expensive %26 take ONLY THE TOP STUDENTS..meaning, they like those with 3.5 to preferrably 4.0 grades ..take lots of science classes, most often you have to start with big animals, like cows, etc meaning you will be putting your whole arm up their bums as well ;) the schooling is 8 years in America, 4-H %26 FFA are also good to join...get all the critter experience you can ...%26 North Calif has a few Vet schools, like UC Davis..there's not many of them is why it's tuff too do..my vet friend started his training while in the military, working with military dogs, etc.Take Care :)
Boy, that's a lot of questions! I have heard that it is harder to get into a vet school these days than medical school. So you need to pull down the very best grades you can.
You must be a graduate of a regular 4-year college or university to be considered for admission to a veterinary school, probably college majors of biology or zoology are the ones most vet students choose.
One of my great vets was a vet tech in the practice he now works in for many years before he went to UC Davis and got his degree in internal medicine.
Answers:
I am applying this summer, so I have researched all of this stuff.
Things they look at GPA (over a 3.6 to be considered, preferably over a 3.7, and that is in undergraduate college- not high school, which GPA only matters for the undergrad school). Top colleges- depends on what you are going for really. I know from my researching (I am going into equine or wildlife) that UC-Davis is a great school overall, and CO has a great Equine, U of Minnesota has a great wildlife. It is a TON cheaper to go to vet school in your state than out of state- $17,000 compared to 35,000.
It is difficult to get in- esp if you are going the dog/cat route, which everyone wants to do. If you pick any other areas, it is easier to get in, but you still need to meet all the guidlines. I have been told not to worry much with what I have right now by the admissions counselor. 3.87 gpa,experience (10 yrs training horses, 1 yr in an emergency vet clinic, 2 yrs supervising at a zoo) and GREs (mine were on the lower end for all but writing) of verb- 590, Quant 680, writing- 5). Those three sections are the main areas they look at.
Test scores: You are talking about the GRE test, which almost all require (U of M does for sure) and some also require the Biology subject test by the same makers of the GRE, something you do not have to worry about for another 6 yrs :)
As for the undergraduate (4 yr degree), I will graduate with a bio major, Wildlife major, Captive wildlife, and chemistry minors (5 yr degree for me). Most have a bachelors degree when they apply, but not all. All you really need are the required coursework on the admissions page of the vet school (all are a little different).
U of MN is really good for livestock and wildlife from what I have heard. I do not know about anything else, but I would consider going there if it wasn't so much more expensive for me ( I live in WI).
As for vet school experience, get experience in what you want. For instance, if you want to go into horses, work at a horse stable. If you like cats and dogs- humane society and open your own dog sitting business, etc. You also need a year or two working at a vet's office to be considered which is so they can see you know what you are getting into. Vet clinic experience is preferred, but get whatever animal experience that you can. Owning a pet does not count as experience in most cases, because everyone has a dog or cat.
Try to get some unique experience that would stand out on your entrance papers.
As for salary- from what I have heard and read, it is 30k starting from vet school, and median is about 60-70k once established.
If you like U of MN, I would take my undergraduate there to make it easier to get into their vet school.
Hello...umm, that's alot of questions..I can tell you NOW is the time to start...vet schools are hard to get into, expensive %26 take ONLY THE TOP STUDENTS..meaning, they like those with 3.5 to preferrably 4.0 grades ..take lots of science classes, most often you have to start with big animals, like cows, etc meaning you will be putting your whole arm up their bums as well ;) the schooling is 8 years in America, 4-H %26 FFA are also good to join...get all the critter experience you can ...%26 North Calif has a few Vet schools, like UC Davis..there's not many of them is why it's tuff too do..my vet friend started his training while in the military, working with military dogs, etc.Take Care :)
Boy, that's a lot of questions! I have heard that it is harder to get into a vet school these days than medical school. So you need to pull down the very best grades you can.
You must be a graduate of a regular 4-year college or university to be considered for admission to a veterinary school, probably college majors of biology or zoology are the ones most vet students choose.
One of my great vets was a vet tech in the practice he now works in for many years before he went to UC Davis and got his degree in internal medicine.
Vet Question About Diabetes In Dwarf Hamsters.?
Campbell's Russian Dwarf Hamsters (Phodopus campbelli) are prone to diabetes. It is thought to be a genetically inherited disorder, although one hamster autopsied by a vet the UK thought it was possibly secondary to a virus that destroyed pancreatic cells. But since it is thought to be genetic, all responsible dwarf hamster breeders test their stock for diabetes. Most of us test using home urine test strips for ketones and glucose. My question is: How accurate are urine test strips meant for humans going to be in hamster urine? Hamsters concentrate their urine much more than people do - wouldn't this affect the reading (giving a falsely high result)? If not, why not? If so, what are some other methods to test for diabetic hamsters? Most vets don't deal with pocket pets, and even when they consent to treat them, many don't even know the healthy blood glucose level for a dwarf hamster. What are our options?
Answers:
the people that should be able to help you with your question are Allexperts. They have qualified vets online that help with all sorts of queries including Pocket pet problems of all kind.
The link is http://en.allexperts.com/
I hope this helps you and you would be able to get a satisfactory answer from them with regard to your question.
Good Luck
Answers:
the people that should be able to help you with your question are Allexperts. They have qualified vets online that help with all sorts of queries including Pocket pet problems of all kind.
The link is http://en.allexperts.com/
I hope this helps you and you would be able to get a satisfactory answer from them with regard to your question.
Good Luck
Vet Check up?
I know pets like dogs and cats can have yearly check ups at the vets just to make sure everything is ok, but can you take in smaller pets for basic health check ups yearly?
I have a one year old syrian hamster and he seems happy and healthy, but hamsters only live a few years and i would like to make sure his health is 100% on top form.
Thanks
Answers:
I have taken in my smaller animals for checkups before. Look in the phone book for a vet that treats "exotic" animals, they usually fall in to this category. Hamsters usually live between 3-5 years. FYI there are also vets that treat "small animals", ie. birds, ferrets, etc. You may want to contact a pet store, sometimes they have a vet that they use. Good Luck.
i would try this site http://www.askpetvet.com go to the forum or try calling a local vet in your area!
Hello...hamsters, etc are often just not something people usually take to vets, or that vets know about much...cuz as you say, they don't live long %26 it often costs more then things like hamsters cost to replace ...am sure some vets would gladly take your money tho..but to me that is not a good vet, round here just an office call to a private vet starts @ $50.00 ..just follow the care instructions for your critters to your best..that's really best %26 all you can do!!! Take Care :)
I have a one year old syrian hamster and he seems happy and healthy, but hamsters only live a few years and i would like to make sure his health is 100% on top form.
Thanks
Answers:
I have taken in my smaller animals for checkups before. Look in the phone book for a vet that treats "exotic" animals, they usually fall in to this category. Hamsters usually live between 3-5 years. FYI there are also vets that treat "small animals", ie. birds, ferrets, etc. You may want to contact a pet store, sometimes they have a vet that they use. Good Luck.
i would try this site http://www.askpetvet.com go to the forum or try calling a local vet in your area!
Hello...hamsters, etc are often just not something people usually take to vets, or that vets know about much...cuz as you say, they don't live long %26 it often costs more then things like hamsters cost to replace ...am sure some vets would gladly take your money tho..but to me that is not a good vet, round here just an office call to a private vet starts @ $50.00 ..just follow the care instructions for your critters to your best..that's really best %26 all you can do!!! Take Care :)
Vet advice for a male bunny!?
i have a male bunny and i want to take him to the vet to get him spay/neutered. what is the difference between the two? is one for females and one for males?
im really worried though because i dont know what the whole spaying/neutering process is like or how long it will take.
how long will it take him to heal?
what do i have to do so he will be comfortable when he comes back home?
how old does a bunny have to be to get neutered?
if theres a vet that specializes in bunnies could you please help!
Answers:
I'm not a vet, but I am a small animal rescuer that recently checked into neutering a rabbit we rescued and I know what my vet told me. We also have a female to be spayed later. Good decision to make. Male rabbits are prone to getting Testicular cancer after age 5 unless they are neutered, which is done after 5 months of age. Females are prone to getting Uterine cancer if not spayed, which is done between 6 months and 2 years. As you can see males are neutered and females are spayed. Males usually don't require stitches and are healed from surgery in less then a week, but can't be placed with a female for at least 14-16 days, the males are still capable of impregnating a female during this time frame. Best bet for the first 24 hours after coming home is to let the rabbit rest and follow any directions on feeding during this time. The next day he may still have pain, but he may want to be played with some. When holding him, support the rear end but be careful not to touch incision area. I'd hold him under the bottom of his feet if he'll let you.
Im not a vet but one is for a female and one os for a male. For the female, they take their whole uterus out. For males, they take their balls away and then they are a lot more healthy. Like for females, if you dont get them "fixed", they can get cancer on their uterus. It doesnt take that long to heal. When my dog had the surgery, he was fine and could run on the 3rd or 4th day after. For a bunny it would be easy because you just put him in his cage. To comfort him, offer plenty of food and water, but dont pet or hold him. Sometimes animals can get mad at you for what you have done and will try to bite you. Also if you pick him up after the surgery, it could hurt his stitches so dont! Hope this helps!
neutering is for males like your bunny. the healing time is about one week. you should just let him take it easy. don't feed him until about an hour until he gets home and only a little food. you can spay a bunny anywhere you could a dog or cat.
NEUTER HIM!!!!!WOO*HOO.LOL
right neutered is for males
it'l,take him 6 weeks to heal
the whole proceeses won't take long and i'm not tellin u ot it is like - trust me u don't want to know
any vet'll do it
A bunny has to be about a year old to be neutered
No there is no vet that specialises in bunnys
U could try the vets or the rabbit socoiety
yes there is a difference between spay and neuter spay is a female and neuter is a male. When you bring him home usualy the vet will tell you what to do but the most important thing is to keep him warm and comfortable like maybe a nice soft towel for him to lay on for the night. I know once any animal has surgery they are really cold so being warm is very important and just keep a good eye on him for the next 24 hours and make sure he is not bleeding from the where the cut was made thats about all you gotta do. I dont know of any vets that just specialize in bunnies but almost every vet knows about bunnies so it should not be hard to find one.
first take your bunny to the vet for a check up, talk to your vet about spaying(female) or neutering(male) your bunny.
recovery takes about a week but every animal heals at different rates. your vet will give you instructions on what to do after the surgery. its very routine i have 4 dogs 2 cats and a horse and all of them have been fixed without any problems
I'm not a vet, but I can answer your question. First of all, spaying is females, neutering is males. Also, the rabbit should be at leat 1 1/2 to 2 before being neutered. The healing process is about 1 month. The only thing you can do for him is make sure he does not pick at his stitches.
im really worried though because i dont know what the whole spaying/neutering process is like or how long it will take.
how long will it take him to heal?
what do i have to do so he will be comfortable when he comes back home?
how old does a bunny have to be to get neutered?
if theres a vet that specializes in bunnies could you please help!
Answers:
I'm not a vet, but I am a small animal rescuer that recently checked into neutering a rabbit we rescued and I know what my vet told me. We also have a female to be spayed later. Good decision to make. Male rabbits are prone to getting Testicular cancer after age 5 unless they are neutered, which is done after 5 months of age. Females are prone to getting Uterine cancer if not spayed, which is done between 6 months and 2 years. As you can see males are neutered and females are spayed. Males usually don't require stitches and are healed from surgery in less then a week, but can't be placed with a female for at least 14-16 days, the males are still capable of impregnating a female during this time frame. Best bet for the first 24 hours after coming home is to let the rabbit rest and follow any directions on feeding during this time. The next day he may still have pain, but he may want to be played with some. When holding him, support the rear end but be careful not to touch incision area. I'd hold him under the bottom of his feet if he'll let you.
Im not a vet but one is for a female and one os for a male. For the female, they take their whole uterus out. For males, they take their balls away and then they are a lot more healthy. Like for females, if you dont get them "fixed", they can get cancer on their uterus. It doesnt take that long to heal. When my dog had the surgery, he was fine and could run on the 3rd or 4th day after. For a bunny it would be easy because you just put him in his cage. To comfort him, offer plenty of food and water, but dont pet or hold him. Sometimes animals can get mad at you for what you have done and will try to bite you. Also if you pick him up after the surgery, it could hurt his stitches so dont! Hope this helps!
neutering is for males like your bunny. the healing time is about one week. you should just let him take it easy. don't feed him until about an hour until he gets home and only a little food. you can spay a bunny anywhere you could a dog or cat.
NEUTER HIM!!!!!WOO*HOO.LOL
right neutered is for males
it'l,take him 6 weeks to heal
the whole proceeses won't take long and i'm not tellin u ot it is like - trust me u don't want to know
any vet'll do it
A bunny has to be about a year old to be neutered
No there is no vet that specialises in bunnys
U could try the vets or the rabbit socoiety
yes there is a difference between spay and neuter spay is a female and neuter is a male. When you bring him home usualy the vet will tell you what to do but the most important thing is to keep him warm and comfortable like maybe a nice soft towel for him to lay on for the night. I know once any animal has surgery they are really cold so being warm is very important and just keep a good eye on him for the next 24 hours and make sure he is not bleeding from the where the cut was made thats about all you gotta do. I dont know of any vets that just specialize in bunnies but almost every vet knows about bunnies so it should not be hard to find one.
first take your bunny to the vet for a check up, talk to your vet about spaying(female) or neutering(male) your bunny.
recovery takes about a week but every animal heals at different rates. your vet will give you instructions on what to do after the surgery. its very routine i have 4 dogs 2 cats and a horse and all of them have been fixed without any problems
I'm not a vet, but I can answer your question. First of all, spaying is females, neutering is males. Also, the rabbit should be at leat 1 1/2 to 2 before being neutered. The healing process is about 1 month. The only thing you can do for him is make sure he does not pick at his stitches.
Very serious question?
This is a life or death situation, I NEED to know;
How much wood COULD a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood?
Answers:
Do you remember Leonardo from the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles? Well, forget about him for a second and lets get serious. What size woodchuck are we talking here? I've seen some wood chucked by a woodchuck before, and I must say he was quite large. You gotta get them when they're young. Expert breeding and strict disciplinary rules will give you a champion woodchuck. Make sure he's always satisfied and chipper. Devote your life to him, Todd, and you too could be in the spot that I am right now...
Dear Andrew..WHAT THE HECk?!?!?!
tons, my friend, tons.
He could chuck about that much wood! :-)
Well, it all depends on how much time the wood chuck who could chuck wood had to chuck wood. Obviously the answer would be different if you were asking in a minute, a day, a week, or even a lifetime.
heheh
A wood chuck COULD chuck as much wood as a wood chuck could chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood.
as much as his lil teeth would allow, about 5 tons i'd say. lol.
He'd chuck all the wood a woodchuck could if a woodchuck could chuck wood
Thanks, I really needed that, funny:-)n Made me smile!!
as much as a wood chuck could chuck wood if a wood chuck could chuck wood.
Ive never seen a wood chuck before..? What do they look like? Is that a cousin to a beaver??
hahahahahhahhahaha
About 3 Logs at the most (this is true) (It is also a healthy Wood chuck)
OMG... LOL!
according to cartman from south park, it's seventeen.
How much wood COULD a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood?
Answers:
Do you remember Leonardo from the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles? Well, forget about him for a second and lets get serious. What size woodchuck are we talking here? I've seen some wood chucked by a woodchuck before, and I must say he was quite large. You gotta get them when they're young. Expert breeding and strict disciplinary rules will give you a champion woodchuck. Make sure he's always satisfied and chipper. Devote your life to him, Todd, and you too could be in the spot that I am right now...
Dear Andrew..WHAT THE HECk?!?!?!
tons, my friend, tons.
He could chuck about that much wood! :-)
Well, it all depends on how much time the wood chuck who could chuck wood had to chuck wood. Obviously the answer would be different if you were asking in a minute, a day, a week, or even a lifetime.
heheh
A wood chuck COULD chuck as much wood as a wood chuck could chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood.
as much as his lil teeth would allow, about 5 tons i'd say. lol.
He'd chuck all the wood a woodchuck could if a woodchuck could chuck wood
Thanks, I really needed that, funny:-)n Made me smile!!
as much as a wood chuck could chuck wood if a wood chuck could chuck wood.
Ive never seen a wood chuck before..? What do they look like? Is that a cousin to a beaver??
hahahahahhahhahaha
About 3 Logs at the most (this is true) (It is also a healthy Wood chuck)
OMG... LOL!
according to cartman from south park, it's seventeen.
Underground pet fence question?
I recently purchased a petsafe underground fence. It was incomplete so I am sending it back. I was wondering what everyone out there prefered between the Innotek or Petsafe. I have a lab, and am enclosing 3 acres for her to roam. Please don't answer if you are against these fences we live in rugged terain, and she likes to run off. We lost two wonderfully loved dogs last year from running, and do not want our hearts broken again. Right now she has to stay in her dog run, and we let her out when we can. We would like to give her more roaming time without worrying about her running off.
Answers:
Innotek is the way to go. We've carried many different brands in the past and only Innotek has survived. My boss uses Innotek for his Vizsla and it works great! Innotek also offers many different add-ons to customize your system and have it do exactly what want it to. However, I would recommend some training so the dog understands it's boundaries. But Innotek is the way to go.
They work really great if you train the dog to respond. Three acres may be too big an area to cover since it requires current throughout the line.
petsafe i think is a more user friendly system, and allows for big areas, but both are good products.
petsafe is suppose to be the better one however i don't know personally.
I trained my dogs not to run off and so far they haven't. they have 50 acres to run on though so they'll get tired and come home before they'll run off.
I'm really not okay with having my pet shocked if they run off the yard though. When I was little there was a dog that would swim across the lake and play with my brother and I and if that dog barked it would get shocked. My grandmother always removed the collar because it's just cruelty.
This to me is cruelty aswell but to one his own.
I can understand your loss and see where you're coming from but long rope leashes would work just as well.
I like the petsafe brand . If used according to directions the collar does all the work for you. I hope you have a good time with her once the fence is in place.
No matter how well trained your lab is he will bolt through the underground fence if he has a good reason, like a bunny or something irresistible like that.
i like petsafe... it was easy to install and it worked good at my parents house. i have never used the innotek brand.. i have heard that brand may be more expensive, but i have never used it.
You are doing the best thing for your dog in your circumstances for sure, so I'll never say it's a bad thing, but also contrary to popular belief dogs do not need alot of room to roam...round here many use the collars %26 fences, that deliver a little shock if the dog tries to go past the barriers, the sheep famers have one they travel with that unrolls %26 is solar electric as well, the thing is, while your dog can't get out, you have to be careful about what can get in %26 trap him, like coyotes, etc...and there's nothing wrong with keeping them in a good sized kennel when things are not safe for them or anyone else, unless you want to take him out for a good romp or play ...Take Care :)
Answers:
Innotek is the way to go. We've carried many different brands in the past and only Innotek has survived. My boss uses Innotek for his Vizsla and it works great! Innotek also offers many different add-ons to customize your system and have it do exactly what want it to. However, I would recommend some training so the dog understands it's boundaries. But Innotek is the way to go.
They work really great if you train the dog to respond. Three acres may be too big an area to cover since it requires current throughout the line.
petsafe i think is a more user friendly system, and allows for big areas, but both are good products.
petsafe is suppose to be the better one however i don't know personally.
I trained my dogs not to run off and so far they haven't. they have 50 acres to run on though so they'll get tired and come home before they'll run off.
I'm really not okay with having my pet shocked if they run off the yard though. When I was little there was a dog that would swim across the lake and play with my brother and I and if that dog barked it would get shocked. My grandmother always removed the collar because it's just cruelty.
This to me is cruelty aswell but to one his own.
I can understand your loss and see where you're coming from but long rope leashes would work just as well.
I like the petsafe brand . If used according to directions the collar does all the work for you. I hope you have a good time with her once the fence is in place.
No matter how well trained your lab is he will bolt through the underground fence if he has a good reason, like a bunny or something irresistible like that.
i like petsafe... it was easy to install and it worked good at my parents house. i have never used the innotek brand.. i have heard that brand may be more expensive, but i have never used it.
You are doing the best thing for your dog in your circumstances for sure, so I'll never say it's a bad thing, but also contrary to popular belief dogs do not need alot of room to roam...round here many use the collars %26 fences, that deliver a little shock if the dog tries to go past the barriers, the sheep famers have one they travel with that unrolls %26 is solar electric as well, the thing is, while your dog can't get out, you have to be careful about what can get in %26 trap him, like coyotes, etc...and there's nothing wrong with keeping them in a good sized kennel when things are not safe for them or anyone else, unless you want to take him out for a good romp or play ...Take Care :)
Umm help...plez!?
ok i got a squrriel he came out of a tree and started to be all friendly with everyone but hes not scared of anything my dad was parked at the end of the drive way and he was under the tire...my squrriel and the truck started and he didnt move and the my dad pulled fowered. he missed my squrriel but ya hes not scared of anything what do i do or he will just umm well die!
Answers:
i say! dont let it die!!
i sugest making an incloser for him so that he cant git in the driveway or puting a leash on him
start chasing him or get a cat, atleast if hes afraid he won't get hit by your car
make a safe zone and make sure that he doesnt go to dangerous zones like the car
Hello there I would inquire at your local animal shelter a.s.a.p. as we do not want a sqidged squirrel, dear little thing.
Hope you are able to resolve this problem soon, the the squirrel's sake and your nerves.
He is a wild animal and unless you've raised him from infancy you have no right to cage him, even if you are attempting to protect him.
This is a wild animal, even if it seems tame and friendly there is always the possibilty that it can bite, scratch, ect. Wild animals are just that... wild. They are not friendly pets and should not be trusted.
Leave it alone, it will not do anything to kill itself.
it'll be ok buddy! i want one of your squirrels! im so jealous of you! but guess what! a squirrel was following me yesterday! she was sooo cute and prego! but yesh.. make him a bed in a garage or something! dont let your dad kill him! {i wuv you}
make him a bed and bring him inside with you. then he can be your pet. thats what i would do. i was thi nking about chasing a rabbitt this morning to keep as a pet. but it was a little to fast for me. =( but i want a pig. i think thats what im gonna do. yeah im gonna get me a pig! "oink oink" its gonna be so cute. but it wont have fur like your squirrel. but well obviously. lol.
Answers:
i say! dont let it die!!
i sugest making an incloser for him so that he cant git in the driveway or puting a leash on him
start chasing him or get a cat, atleast if hes afraid he won't get hit by your car
make a safe zone and make sure that he doesnt go to dangerous zones like the car
Hello there I would inquire at your local animal shelter a.s.a.p. as we do not want a sqidged squirrel, dear little thing.
Hope you are able to resolve this problem soon, the the squirrel's sake and your nerves.
He is a wild animal and unless you've raised him from infancy you have no right to cage him, even if you are attempting to protect him.
This is a wild animal, even if it seems tame and friendly there is always the possibilty that it can bite, scratch, ect. Wild animals are just that... wild. They are not friendly pets and should not be trusted.
Leave it alone, it will not do anything to kill itself.
it'll be ok buddy! i want one of your squirrels! im so jealous of you! but guess what! a squirrel was following me yesterday! she was sooo cute and prego! but yesh.. make him a bed in a garage or something! dont let your dad kill him! {i wuv you}
make him a bed and bring him inside with you. then he can be your pet. thats what i would do. i was thi nking about chasing a rabbitt this morning to keep as a pet. but it was a little to fast for me. =( but i want a pig. i think thats what im gonna do. yeah im gonna get me a pig! "oink oink" its gonna be so cute. but it wont have fur like your squirrel. but well obviously. lol.
Umm funraiser for humane socity.?
Me and my friend are gonna raise money for the Womans Humane socity the animal shelter that is currently around me. We neeed some ideas for fundraiser. Were gonna do a yard sale and a lemonaid stand. Any other ideas?? Thanks, wish me luck
Answers:
Get Pet Stores to donate pet toys and have a raffle, local groomers to donate a Free grooming! Good luck;^)
bake sale!
How about a car wash?
Also, if the shelter is in on this with you, it would be a great idea to hold the fundraiser at a place where the shelter could bring out some of the pets. Not only will furry faces help get donations, they might find some potential new families and get adopted.
Somewhat along the lines of what SureKat said, getting local business to donate gift baskets of items and then raffling off the baskets can get some cash, as well as a 50/50 raffle.
When we did one, we sold hot dogs. If you can have someone grill them those are a cheap way to raise money. You might talk to local businesses about getting things donated for a raffle drawings or a silent auction. They might even be willing to donate the hot dogs or buns as long as you give them the credit for it! Good luck to you %26 the animals!
How about a car wash? Add some homemade cookies and cupcakes to that lemonade stand. You can do a dog wash as well.
Best of luck to you!!!
How about a neighborhood dog wash? The supplies would be cheap, and the service goes along with the cause. You could send out fliers, set up certain times, and go from there. The shelter may even help you out with supplies or a place to hold it. The only issue I can see is getting a dog that is not so nice when it comes to bath time. Good Luck!
Answers:
Get Pet Stores to donate pet toys and have a raffle, local groomers to donate a Free grooming! Good luck;^)
bake sale!
How about a car wash?
Also, if the shelter is in on this with you, it would be a great idea to hold the fundraiser at a place where the shelter could bring out some of the pets. Not only will furry faces help get donations, they might find some potential new families and get adopted.
Somewhat along the lines of what SureKat said, getting local business to donate gift baskets of items and then raffling off the baskets can get some cash, as well as a 50/50 raffle.
When we did one, we sold hot dogs. If you can have someone grill them those are a cheap way to raise money. You might talk to local businesses about getting things donated for a raffle drawings or a silent auction. They might even be willing to donate the hot dogs or buns as long as you give them the credit for it! Good luck to you %26 the animals!
How about a car wash? Add some homemade cookies and cupcakes to that lemonade stand. You can do a dog wash as well.
Best of luck to you!!!
How about a neighborhood dog wash? The supplies would be cheap, and the service goes along with the cause. You could send out fliers, set up certain times, and go from there. The shelter may even help you out with supplies or a place to hold it. The only issue I can see is getting a dog that is not so nice when it comes to bath time. Good Luck!
Two cats and a dog?
I want to get a puppy but I already have 2 cats and a dog. The younger of my cats LOVES dogs but the older one dosnt like any other animals. Both the cats are declawed and the dog is small and friendly but I want a puppy that will like cats. Is there any SMALL dog breeds that like cats? (And that dont bark too much)
Answers:
EXCERPTS FROM! A DOG'S DIARY
8:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
9:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVORITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
1:00 PM - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVORITE!
1:30 PM - ooooooo. bath. bummer.
4:00 PM - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
5:00 PM - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
5:30 PM - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVORITE!
EXCERPTS FROM! A CAT'S DIARY
DAY 752 - My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while I am forced to eat dry cereal. The only thing that keeps me going is the hope of escape, and the mild satisfaction I get from ruining the occasional piece of furniture. Tomorrow I may eat another houseplant.
My cat who recently ran off for about a month and has now returned!
DAY 761 - Today my attempt to kill my captors by weaving around their feet while they were walking almost succeeded, must try this at the top of the stairs. In an attempt to disgust and repulse these vile oppressors, I once again induced myself to vomit on their favorite chair...must try this on their bed.
DAY 765 - Decapitated a mouse and brought them the headless body, in attempt to make them aware of what I am capable of, and to try to strike fear into their hearts. They only cooed and condescended about what a good little cat I was...Hmmm. Not working according to plan.
DAY 768 - I am finally aware of how sadistic they are. For no good reason I was chosen for the water torture. This time however it included a burning foamy chemical called "shampoo." What sick minds could invent such a liquid? My only consolation is the piece of thumb still stuck between my teeth.
DAY 771 - There was some sort of gathering of their accomplices. I was placed in solitary throughout the event. However, I could hear the noise. More importantly I overheard that my confinement was due to MY power of "allergies." Must learn what this is and how to use it to my advantage.
DAY 774 - I am convinced the other captives are flunkies and maybe snitches. The dog is routinely released and seems more than happy to return. He is obviously a half-wit. The bird on the other hand has got to be an informant, and speaks with them regularly. I am certain he reports my every move. Due to his current placement in the metal room his safety is assured. But I can wait; it is only a matter of time.
yes, the puppy it麓s a friendly to your LOVES (I like the name) and the older cat must be "enter" too on this friendly chip.
Answers:
EXCERPTS FROM! A DOG'S DIARY
8:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
9:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVORITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
1:00 PM - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVORITE!
1:30 PM - ooooooo. bath. bummer.
4:00 PM - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
5:00 PM - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
5:30 PM - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVORITE!
EXCERPTS FROM! A CAT'S DIARY
DAY 752 - My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while I am forced to eat dry cereal. The only thing that keeps me going is the hope of escape, and the mild satisfaction I get from ruining the occasional piece of furniture. Tomorrow I may eat another houseplant.
My cat who recently ran off for about a month and has now returned!
DAY 761 - Today my attempt to kill my captors by weaving around their feet while they were walking almost succeeded, must try this at the top of the stairs. In an attempt to disgust and repulse these vile oppressors, I once again induced myself to vomit on their favorite chair...must try this on their bed.
DAY 765 - Decapitated a mouse and brought them the headless body, in attempt to make them aware of what I am capable of, and to try to strike fear into their hearts. They only cooed and condescended about what a good little cat I was...Hmmm. Not working according to plan.
DAY 768 - I am finally aware of how sadistic they are. For no good reason I was chosen for the water torture. This time however it included a burning foamy chemical called "shampoo." What sick minds could invent such a liquid? My only consolation is the piece of thumb still stuck between my teeth.
DAY 771 - There was some sort of gathering of their accomplices. I was placed in solitary throughout the event. However, I could hear the noise. More importantly I overheard that my confinement was due to MY power of "allergies." Must learn what this is and how to use it to my advantage.
DAY 774 - I am convinced the other captives are flunkies and maybe snitches. The dog is routinely released and seems more than happy to return. He is obviously a half-wit. The bird on the other hand has got to be an informant, and speaks with them regularly. I am certain he reports my every move. Due to his current placement in the metal room his safety is assured. But I can wait; it is only a matter of time.
yes, the puppy it麓s a friendly to your LOVES (I like the name) and the older cat must be "enter" too on this friendly chip.
Two bunnies mean two water bottles, two times as many litterboxes, etc?
Do I really need double the stuff with two bunnies? or can they just share
Answers:
It depends on whether the bunnies like each other, and if they are both the same sex, and whether their fixed or not. If they are males and their not fixed, then you should probably get separate cages, not to mention separate litter boxes, water bottles, etc. However, if they are friendly and like each other, then it's not a problem for them to share stuff. Just make sure you put extra food and water out if you decide to only do 1 of everything. Good luck!
They can share. We had 3 bunnies and they all used the same stuff.
If the rabbits get along, they should be able to share everything just fine. If they don't however, or if you have two of opposite sexes and don't plan to breed, yes, you need double.
if they have been together since they were young, no you won't need to, but if one is male and one is female u may want to seperate them or you will need alot more stuff and quick because once a rabbit is born and hits about 4 weeks old it can reproduce again and the cycle will go on..thats alot of bunnies
They will share with no problems, unless they are all intact males!
Answers:
It depends on whether the bunnies like each other, and if they are both the same sex, and whether their fixed or not. If they are males and their not fixed, then you should probably get separate cages, not to mention separate litter boxes, water bottles, etc. However, if they are friendly and like each other, then it's not a problem for them to share stuff. Just make sure you put extra food and water out if you decide to only do 1 of everything. Good luck!
They can share. We had 3 bunnies and they all used the same stuff.
If the rabbits get along, they should be able to share everything just fine. If they don't however, or if you have two of opposite sexes and don't plan to breed, yes, you need double.
if they have been together since they were young, no you won't need to, but if one is male and one is female u may want to seperate them or you will need alot more stuff and quick because once a rabbit is born and hits about 4 weeks old it can reproduce again and the cycle will go on..thats alot of bunnies
They will share with no problems, unless they are all intact males!
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